This forum is in read-only mode. Please continue to browse, but replies are disabled for now. Why?

Razor Scooter 325 will not move with any weight.

I have a Razor 325 Scooter that will not move with any 60 pounds from my 7 year old. I tried to fix it a couple of years ago after getting new batteries. The repair shop replaced the Motor, Throttle and Control Box. The unit only worked for about 6 months and then kept going through batteries and now it has brand new batteries (for the 5th time) but still will not operate with any weight. Have verified battery connections and output.  When you lift up the unit it runs and the rear wheel spins freely. Throttle shows proper voltage and charge.  Can you please advise on what part or parts I should buy from you to fix this issue.....Thanks!!!

(42.2 KB)
(34.4 KB)
(25.3 KB)
(44.4 KB)
(43.8 KB)

1 person has this question

Yes,  We have the scooter working and charges only when the power switch is turned on. 

It originally did not charge but remembering one of your earlier posts and trouble shooting tactics I turned on the power switch and it charges in this position.  Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for the info. That confirms that the charger port wires were installed on the wrong connector of the adapter. We will make you a new adapter and send it to you to fix this problem.

I just received the new adapter.  The red wire on the top that connects both plastic connectors appears to have been cut a little short and the wire end pulled out from the brass connector inside the unit.  It was not attached when I opened the envelope.  I took the clip out of the top plastic connector and attempted to re-connect the wire but it would not stay in place.  Can you please send another connector.  Thx

I apologize for this problem. Our technician is supposed to solder every terminal connection so this does not happen but he must have missed one terminal on the harness when he was making it. I will have him remake the adapter tomorrow and send it to you.


The scooter appears to be fixed!I installed the new wiring harness and the scooter appears to charge and run properly.We tested briefly due to weather and will do it again after the weather clears.The local scooter shop was not able to repair and I appreciate your time and support to help get the scooter fixed.I have also passed your info on to my local battery shop where I purchased the batteries as they get inquiries on the best way to repair.I will advise if we run into any further issues….but we should be all set!Thanks again!!

I know this is an old thread, but was hoping you could answer my question.  I have done a bunch of testing on my scooter and found that the batteries are good.  I bypassed the power switch as well as the relay and I think they are both good.  When I hook up the everything bypassing the switch and relay, I get like 19v out of the yellow and blue wires that plug into the motor connector.  This is only for a brief second.  I hear a click somewhere, possibly the control module, then the voltage drops to somewhere around 1-3v.  I am thinking the control module may need to be replaced, but not sure if it could be the throttle? Any thoughts?

Thank you,


The next step I would take is to test the Voltage of the battery pack with the power on and throttle at zero, and then while keeping an eye on the battery pack Voltage, fully twist the throttle. The battery pack Voltage should start out around 27 or 28 Volts with the throttle released, and should not drop under 24 Volts when the throttle is fully twisted.

If during this test the battery pack Voltage does not drop under 24 Volts then the problem could be with the controller, throttle, or motor. The most likely part to fail in this case is the controller. Throttles usually do not fail unless they are physically damaged, however on rare occasion they do fail on their own.

The motor is the least likely part to fail however testing it by connecting it to a battery is a good way to verify that it works and rule it out as the problem. If the motor tests good then the diagnosis points towards the throttle or controller being faulty. Both of these parts could be replaced at the same time, or the throttle could be tested to narrow down which of these two parts is causing the problem.

The method to test the throttle depends on whether the throttle has indicator lights on it or not. If it has indicator lights then it is a variable speed hall-effect throttle, and if the throttle does not have indicator lights on it then it is a single speed on/off throttle.

Variable speed throttles with lights can be tested using the speed controller's Red, Black, and Green wires that go to the throttle connector, using this method:

Step 1: Test Throttle Output Voltage of Controller

Step 2: Test Signal Voltage of Throttle

If the controller does not output 4.3 through 5 Volts to the throttle then it is either not receiving power, not receiving enough power, or not working properly. If the controller outputs 4.3 through 5 Volts to the throttle then the throttle can be tested using the method of the bottom drawing. The throttle's output Voltage should be around 0.8 Volts at its resting position, and around 4.3 Volts when fully twisted. If the throttle has zero Volts of output, or does not go above 0.8 Volts when fully engaged, then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Single speed throttles without lights can be tested by checking continuity between their two orange wires and between their two brown wires. The orange-orange wires and brown-brown wires should have no continuity when the throttle is at its resting position, and have continuity when fully engaged.

Please let us know how it goes.

Login or Signup to post a comment