I have a Mini-motors "speedway 4" scooter 600w (nominal) 52v. 30.5Ah/52V Battery.
The existing headlight has a sticker stating it was 48v, it wasn't producing the enough light for me while riding at night.
So i decided to upgrade to 2x LEDUR Motorcycle Headlight Led U7 which is rated
- Input Voltage: 12V-80V DC, 15W(actual power).
- Voltage 12volts
- Total watts 30
i googles a few different ways i could install both replacement lights for the existing. so i connected both positives from each of the light and connected it the existing cable(same for the negative and the angel light cable) of the old light cable.
it worked, but then i noticed the LCD throttle controller back light didn't turn on but the numbers were on, but when pressing the throttle the rear motor did not spin and i could not turn off the power to the scooter.
So i decided to turn off the power right from the battery pack and then reconnect. when i did that the scooter did not turn back on. i wasn't sure what i did wrong and i noticed the throttle was warm and when i opened it up a little bit of smoke came out.
i know i should have done my research before tampering with the electronics.
i would much appreciate it if can anyone help me solve this
A) what is causing it to not turn on ?
B) the correct way to do the wiring, where i can use the existing battery without purchasing an additional battery pack?
Since smoke poured out of the throttle that is the first part that we would suspect as being damaged. The damage could extend past the throttle, however, replacing it is the first step that we would take.
The new headlights should be wired independently from the rest of the scooter so they draw their power directly from the battery pack instead of through the scooters existing wires and switches. The original battery pack could be spliced into for this, or a separate battery pack could be installed just for the lights. 30 Watts is a significant amount of power for a switch so a handlebar or panel mount switch which is rated for a 30 Watt load would need to be used and the independent circuit for the headlights should be fuse protected as close to the battery pack as possible.
Thank you for your quick response, I really appreciate it
following your suggestion, i purchased a new original display and fitted it in and the motor has started to work again. thank you !
I would like to keep the exterior less bulky with additional add-on's as possible. The light came with a "handlebar on/off switch" but im finding it difficult to visualise what you mentioned.
I can gather the parts i need and follow how to splice the original battery pack and independently use it for the 2 lights. Could you suggest a wiring diagram of what you have mentioned about splicing?
Specifications for each light:
LED Type: LED XML2-Chips
Type: Headlight/spotlight ,DRL Daytime Driving Light
Operating Voltage: 12V-80V DC
Actual power: High beam:15W,low beam:4.5W,strobe function:8W
Luminous Flux: High beam:3000LM, low beam:1800LM
A "tap splice" is the type of splice that can be used to obtain power directly from the battery pack wires. There are several types of tap splice connectors which are available for this type of connection. We like using the Posi-Tap type of tap splice connectors because they pierce the conductor that is being tapped with a needle instead of crushing it between two fork tines.
Here is a wiring diagram showing how to wire two headlights to one switch.
Please let us know if you have any questions.