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24v gator

Premium Foot Pedal Throttle (THR-89)
2 Wire Key Switch With 2 Keys (SWT-222)
24 Volt 500 Watt Speed Controller (SPD-24500B)
2 Pin Battery/Motor Connector Set With Pins (CNX-50)
2 Pin Throttle/Speed Controller Connector Set With Pins (CNX-51)
3 Pin Throttle/Speed Controller Connector Set With Pins (CNX-52)


I have one of these.


I have a 4aph 24v lipo battery I plan on using.

I know that the way those toys work it is on or off. This will destroy the toy.

So I plan on adding a variable pedal and a controller to the toy so it will last longer.


Here is the issue. I would like to buy parts that will work for this 24v project and when the toy dies be able to use the parts to make a decent go-cart. I am not sure what the most cost effective motor for the go-cart project is. Or if there are controllers that can work in a range of 24 to 48 volts brushed or not brushed.


So I want to be able to use these parts for a go cart.


For this project I want to have a key and reverse and the medal pedal. Perhaps a step down to 12v for accessories if I choose.. It depends on the price of the items needed. If there is a way to set up a remote kill switch I would like to know the cost of that as well. Problem is I am unsure as to what the demands of this toy are.. so Its hard to pick out the correct equipment and because I have no reference it is hard to pick what would be best for the gocart. I would like to be able to drive this go cart as well.. I am 165lbs. This is why I am contacting you.

Do I need any other parts other than what is listed above to make this work.



To select the best motor for this project the top speed that you want the toy to travel at is an important specification to have because then we can go over sprockets and reduction ratios to find the best motor for the job.

Most controllers are limited to one battery pack Voltage and do not work in the 24-48 Volt range. We do have one controller that does work in the 24-60 Volt range however I do not recommend it for this project because it is rated for 24 Volt 700 Watt motors which is probably more power than the motor that will be used. It also requires a heavy duty external power switch or contactor and is not available with reverse. I imagine that you would want to use a controller with reverse such as our SPD-24500R.

We have a step down converter that will power the 12 Volt lights and accessories. We currently do not have a remote kill switch however they are available at many online electronics stores for very good prices.

We have motors that will be able to power the toy with an adult driver. We just need to figure out what the top speed will be in order to determine which motor is best suited for it. Do you know what the top speed is that you want the toy to travel at?

 OK Then,

I've been researching and have also decided  that to be able to reuse parts is not an option. At least the controller.

I will attach the motor spcs of the toy so we can decide best controller and other items.

If need be I can wire up a few relays to a switch for reverse.  There is no need for the added expense of the other controller.  I may be able to use the toys existing reverse as well..  It is designed for 12v 30 amp but we will be making it 24v and the amp draw should be less.

That being said are the parts I guessed about above correct or do I need more items for the conversion.  Please look at http://en.pegperego.com/toys/john-deere-gator-hpx So you know the exact toy I am modifing.



I ran a calculation on that motor and got a maximum power result of 468 Watts when running it at 24 Volts. So a 24 Volt 500 Watt controller would be a perfect match for it.

I looked over your parts list again and everything appears to be there that is needed. The only required connections for that controller are the battery, motor, throttle, and key switch - and you have all of those parts covered between the battery pack and motor that you already have, and the parts on your list.

Do you think I will be needing any other connectors?



The list has all of the correct connectors for the battery and motor, throttle, and key switch. You might want to order some extra connector terminals in case any get messed up during installation - this way one failed crimp or solder joint will not hold up the installation.

Thank you,

Do you believe the stock 2 speed switch and reverse will hold up?

If not what relays do you recommend for the reverse.. the 2 speed is irrelevant.  I know I can wire up two relays to do the job.  It would be more cost effective I believe.  But U know best.

As for the stock wiring  what do you recommend.

That should be it.



I have never performed this modification so I do not know how the original reverse switch will hold up. My logic says that it will work since the Amp load will remain around the same however only time will tell how it would actually hold up with the new Voltage. You could always try it and if it does not hold up then replace it with relays. Another thought I have is to not try it with the new Voltage and to preserve it as the reverse switch for the relays. I think that I would go this route and preserve it as the switch for the relays if it was my build.

For reverse relays the 24 Volt 40 Amp RLY-2440 would work however for one dollar more I would use the 24 Volt 100 Amp RLY-24100 relays to provide higher reliability. If the original wiring is 14 gauge or higher then it will work with the new controller. If you wind up needing to replace the wiring because it is under 14 gauge then I would use 12 gauge because I like to overbuild electrical systems for reliability.

My thought exactly.  

Thank you for the help.

I will call and make my order tomorrow.

I forgot. recommendation for 12v step down and brake lights that work with the controller.

Thanks again for the great help.


We carry a step down Voltage converter that steps 24 through 72 Volts down to 12 Volts and has a maximum output current of 10 Amps. The mating connector for it is item # CNX-52. It is fairly compact and easy to mount, and would give you the option of running headlights and accessories in the future. It is our item # CVT-7212 which is available on this page: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/voltage-converters.html


Sorry to bother you but I need a part number for the brake lights that will plug into that controller.

I'm hoping I will not need any kind of a converter to make them work.



Any brake light with a 24 Volt bulb will work with the controller without the need for a Voltage converter. We used to have a brake light with 24 Volt bulb that mounted to any flat surface which was our item # LIT-805 however the manufacturer has stopped making this light and we are sold out of it. We have another brake light with 24 Volt bulb which is item # LIT-800 that we have in stock however it mounts to a convex surface instead of a flat surface. It is sold on this page: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/taillights.html

Another option would be to use a 12 Volt truck clearance/marker light and install a 24 Volt bulb into it. These lights are are available at most auto part stores and mount onto flat surfaces. Our 24 Volt bulb item # BLB-243 works with most clearance/marker lights. Our bulbs are sold on this page: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/lamps.html

ok thanks.. 

Ill post some pics of the job as we go if you want..

Thanks again for the help.


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