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Modify a Razor E200 Controller

Will this work if u take the controller apart on utube they say u can put a wire across it to make it give u full power . U can use a wire or a bit of solder . To bridge it across . There is a lot of utube saying it works and by doing this on 24 v it give Les u a lot more power to the motor . Whether by doing that u can put 36v . But on 24v it's meant to make more power . I have order a new controller but this will be the last one that I buying as from what Iv been told Iv blown the others up , but they r doing the same as This new one I get yesterday and it's still doing the same . So now I am thinking I did not blow the others up they r just doing the same . Please help me. Y duz it start to run the motor as soon as I turn. Iv got it all right with the power lead going in last. So what is going on. Iv contacted the man I got the Controller from , & he will not give me a refund & now had told me to stop emailing him as he will not help me sort this . So I have turned to the scooter gods to find out y it's blowing up 4 Controller
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I have not performed the controller jumper wire modification shown on YouTube that you are referring to so I do not have any experiences to share about it. In general though, modifying parts usually makes them less reliable so I would not advise to modify the controller if you want it to be reliable. Modifying it in a way that would make it more powerful would cause it to generate more heat than it is designed to which could cause it to burn out.

Regarding the multiple controllers that keep burning out, presuming that they were wired correctly then the cause of them burning out would have to be that the motor has a burned out winding or an internal short circuit which is overloading the controllers and burning out their transistors. When a controller locks into a full power state it is from its MOSFET output transistors overheating and burning out, and when MOSFET transistors burn out the lock into the power on position.

If the controllers keep burning out then I would replace the old motor with a new motor before installing another controller.

Please let us know if you have any questions.
It's a new 350w 24 v . Puting 3 battrys 36 v it just clicks. I am thinking about doing a switch so as its runing I can trun the 3D battey on I show in oc what he did . Also I did get the 36v 800w controller on and when u trun the on& off switch on it lights up but u turn the twist grip and not a thing no clicking sound. In the pic that's my standard controller . Pic of the motor . Iv been told u can not f up the twist grip. So y will it no my turn on . I make a cover to cover the battey . But it's now on turning in with 36v .. I am stuck. The lady pic is the twist grip I got and controller I got now the Conroller not work . But the red light lites up one red bar , but u turn the twist grip & not a thing. No clicking or anything . Please help me. I could do the 36 v but will have to do it on a on& off switch so when I turn it on it runs sweet . & then to kill the switch to make it stop. Please help me with this. If u don't don't think that will work west do I start from . The jump wire on utube tell u to put a strip aross to let more 24 v into the motor. Need a front sprocket Iv got a 11 teeth front but need a 12/13 front . Do u sell them
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Are you using a 24 or 36 Volt battery pack with the 36 Volt controller?
With the 350w 24v new motor I am use the 24v Battry with the standard controller . It's works fine . Iv tryed to used 36v on the standard e200 controller . But it just clicks. When putting in the new controller the 36v 800w controller I can get the light to switch on but there is no clicking from the controller, & it don't move . But if I put the blue & red wires together it's doz run at full speed but have no control over it . It just Gos at full power . It spins faster witch is what I want as I am trying to overvolt it. But like I say is full power or no power at all. Iv been told it not the twist grip as that is ment for 36v . And when putting the yellow wire to the indercter one bar red lights up, but don't work or makes the controller click. This is got to be the 4/5 Th controll Iv got for this . So I can not get any more controllers as its getting to much in money . I have made sure all the wire r right . The moter is new and the controller . But not a thing . Am I getting the wrong controller is it this one I need as it has the two main red wire u use on the on& off switch . I put a pic up of that controller .or tho Iv been told that the ones I have been getting shod work . Iv asked the shop i got them from for s refund and they told me no as i could of blown it . Witch I no I have not . Please help me with this . I have orderd a on& off switch witch I was hoping to put the 3 battey into it but then as the scooter is running then turn it on making it to 36v. Would that work if so do u no how to wire it in to make that work . Iv tryed it all and the controllers I have been use ing are not working . Any help please . 1st pic is the controller I am thinking of bying . The other pic is the ones Iv have been getting 4 of the now . & they don't work . I want it on 36v The 3pic is the standed e200 controller . That works fine but on 24v .
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Most 24 Volt controller will run on 36 Volts however it sounds like the one you have will not. Even if it did it probably would not last very long on 36 Volts anyways so no big loss.

The 36 Volt controller will only work with a 36 Volt battery pack, and not with a 24 Volt battery pack. To diagnose the problem with the 36 Volt controller I would need to see the wiring connections between it and the scooter. Do you have any photos of the 36 Volt controller when it was wired up to the scooter?
I will take the scooter a part and do the controller & this time take a pic by pic of it, if u can help me with that cool thank u. I no its not a blown controller as when on 36v I out the red & blue wires to the power switch and it lite up but when puttin the throttle on the 3pin even leaving the yellow one out the was no spinning of the motor &no clicking sound. Do u think I need to run a power main wite to the controller to tourn it on. The last wire I put on is the 24 or 36 power lead from the power pack . I can put the red & blue to together and it spins . Very fast . Or can I run it on 24 v the as its moving switch a switch to trun the other 12v battrey on . Would that work. In my head I think I can make it a 24v pack with the 3d battry wired up but with a switch so when off 24v turn it on up to 36v going up hills . What do u think
If you are using a 36 Volt controller then it will not operate on a 24 Volt battery pack, so a battery pack that switches between 24 and 36 Volts would not work with it when it was in the 24 Volt mode.

Electrical wiring is easier to understand graphically than verbally so I would need to see photos of the wiring connections between the controller and scooter, and photos of the battery pack wiring in order to figure this out.

Sometimes it can be difficult for me to trace where all of the wires go in photos, so if you have a graphics program (like Xara Photo & Graphic Designer or similar) then a wiring diagram drawing would be even better and easier for me to figure out.
Will do tomorrow picture by pic . This is my old controller . Witch I did think I would run on 36v. Why do u think it's a good thing not run my 350w 24v moter on 36v csn I asks . Was hoping if I could of got it running on this standard controller 24v I could use the 36 when needed . But your right on a 36v controller if I drop to 24v it cuts off . So y don't my one work on 36 v also the other pic a that bridge u out aross the metal bar the restricts the Power they say u remove it or add to it, one sed he add wirer to it then fix it to the black earth wire so it don't pick up the voult is that right .
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The benefit of not running the 24 Volt motor on 36 Volts is that it will run cooler and last longer on 24 Volts. Other than that there is nothing wrong with overvolting it to 36 Volts.


This is the first time that I have heard of a controller with over Voltage protection so this is new to me. The controller manufacturer must have done that to prevent it from being overvolted for safety or warranty purposes.


I do not have any experience with modifying controllers so I do not know if modifying it in one way or another would be right or wrong.

Could I of blow the 36 v twist grip is or not . When putting the yellow wire in it lites up with one red bar . Its got me . I think razor put a limiter on the new version 36 . As I am not the only one that 36v just makes the controller click. Mmmmm . I I no the Batrry park is good 36v I no the controller wires r right red to red black to black for the charging port. The red& blue on & off is ok . If I tuch the red and blue it makes the motor spin but not when I out the switch on . It's mad I will put it up pic by pic as soon as I can . Is the much diff between 24/36v as in will it make it go more miles . Or just faster
Set pic of controller is did make the red & blue on& off switch longer and the right fittings
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Do u think if I ran it on 36 v with this 350w 24v motor witch is new . Would it not last long . I no u can overvolt it and it will go so much faster . As seen u utube clips . But what they don't say is that a few days later the motor was shot to bits over heated . U no more about scooters then anyone your the scooter gods .i use the scooter a lot . Say 10 mins a day then charge it and then my 13 year old son gos out on it . He loves it . It's him that helped do the 350w motor and spraying it . As we hated the green it's got to be the worse green they could of done. It's in primer at mo , it's going to be blue or black will put more pic up soon
As my son will be having this scooter in the long run , & I need to use it for now I am runing it on 24v 350w moter it's better then the e200 standard moter . Iv swoped the back sprocket from a 55 standard to a 47 witch made a difference , it's got a 11 on the motor . Can u get a 12 or 13 teeth front motor . I think they r a D shape is that right . But all I can fine is 11 teeth ones & lower . On the 800w motor that's got a 12 teeth sprocket but it's a t8f chain . When the razor 250w/350w/ so on are #25 6mm chain . But if u can find me a 12or 13 or 14 witch will work on my moter then that would save me so much work . The motor code is ZY1016 / 350w 24v . If I can up grade to front sprocket even by 1or 2 teeth then I think it will be as fast as puting in the 800w motor. Also is this right no mater what moter I put into it I.e 350w 500w 800w 1000w as its got 8" wheels and as long as I go to to the lowest sprocket on the back & big on front there is only a set speed it will go . Don't get me wrong yes the 800w will get u up hills with out slowing down at all . But am I right in that as long as the gearing is right a 350w motor with 47 back and 11 or say 13 on the front will go faster then a 800w motor running on a 55 back sprocket & 11 or 12 on front . Is that right . Ok I no on the t8f sprockets u can get a 44 teeth back as I got one from u . But have I got that right . I could get this 350w 24v going faster then a 800w as long as I can get a 12/13 front sprocket . Please help me find one for this motor please
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Not one of the controllers work . 3 12v batteys all done proply & the red and blue is on the on & off switch . The charging port is right . Iv had do it all right . They don't work as soon as u plug the moter power lead in the moter spin . I give up. I need a 13 teeth sprocket or cut the fram to take 9" razor 300 wheel . They just will not work , u don't even have to plug the twist grip in . The motor just spins . I put it on my 800w 36v moter and the same . The contollers r .

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