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Installing Turn Signals

Hi, my name's anthony and I'm looking to buy turning signals for my electronic scooter, but I don't know how to go about it. My scooter doesn't have one already, so I'm not just replacing parts but installing the entire thing. I was hoping for a little direction: can you tell me what I'll be needing to make this attachment complete? A simple google search hasn't been a lot of help. tks

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I am a little uncertain about the hazard switch in the first image (using blinkers for hazard lights - the approach I want to take) Can you direct me to which part number this would be in your inventory please.

Also, The first image is perfect. All I need now is to include both a horn and headlights with high beam capabilities. I plan to buy all of these parts from you guys very soon.

Thanks again for your help.


The hazard switch in the wiring diagram for hazard lights using blinkers is a DP3T (double pole triple throw) switch which we do not carry however they are available at most stores that sell electrical components.

I am not sure if you want the taillight to be wired to the headlight circuit so I made two wiring diagrams, one with a taillight and one without.

Here is the wiring diagram with a taillight:

And here is the wiring diagram without a taillight:

I attached printable PDF files of these two wiring diagrams.

Please let me know if you have any questions.
I think, based on your diagrams, that I have come up with a solution. I am currently trying to find a way to re-create your diagram and then post it here for you to see and evaluate.


That sounds great. I am looking forward to reviewing your wiring diagram.

Well, here goes..... I hope you are able to follow this diagram. This is the very first one I have ever done. Please let me know if you find any errors in my diagram. I am very open to constructive criticism.

I reposted this due to the error in the first image. I don't want other people coming for help and seeing an incorrect diagram. I would prefer to not have people use a faulty diagram.

I had a good look over your wiring diagram and everything looks to be in order however I do have a few comments about it.

1. The DC-DC converter should have a switch between it and the battery pack otherwise it will continuously put a drain on the battery pack, even when it is not being used.

2. There are no taillights wired into the headlight circuit, maybe this is intentional though because an external taillight will be used.

3. The headlights bulbs and turn signal bulbs would need to be dual filament dual contact bulbs for the wiring diagram to work with them and in the diagram they are depicted as single filament single contact bulbs. If single filament turn signal bulbs were used then the hazard switch circuit would make all four turn signal bulbs illuminate at once when the turn signals were in use. I will attach an illustration of both single and dual filament bulbs to help with your wiring diagram.

The only other thing I can think of is something that I omitted from my wiring diagrams which is a fuse or circuit breaker between the wiring harness and battery pack.
Ahhhh yes,

1. Thank you for pointing out my missing switch between the battery and DC/DC.

2. I wasn't sure how to wire in the tail light onto this diagram (I assume you mean as a running light). There are no intentions on an external tail light being used. Just the two in the picture. Can't have too many extra lights as it will keep adding weight to my electric recumbent trike.

3. I assumed the hazard switch had to be turned on in order for all 4 of the blinker lights to illuminate together just like regular hazard lights on a motorcycle/car/scooter. If the switch wasn't on then the only blinkers to illuminate should be the 2 I choose when engaging my turn signal switch. Please correct me if I am misunderstanding this.

3b. Thanks for the added images. The headlights were intended to be dual filament I just (for sake of laziness) used the images you had in your diagrams. However the blinkers were not intended to be dual filament as I thought the hazards would work differently as I described above.

4, Could you give me a diagram of how I would use the "Fuse and/or Circuit Breaker".

One thing to remember is that nothing else other than what you see in the diagram will be connected to the batteries. There is no motor (well there is but it has its own battery pack to run from **Not a 12V**)


 Here is an updated version of my diagram hopefully taking care of all the issues except for the "Fuse / Circuit Breaker" you mentioned.

The taillights or running lights could be wired to a separate switch than the headlights use, and then a simple SPST switch could be used to turn them on and off, or they could be controlled with the same switch that turns the headlights on and off by using a SP3T switch as shown in the wiring diagram below. Most vehicles integrate the headlight and taillight switch together so they are both turned on and off at the same time.

The left and right turn signal bulb positive leads are connected together with the orange wire. This will cause both bulbs to blink at the same time when the left or right turn signal switch is on.

To solve this you could use dual filament dual contact turn signal bulbs, have separate turn signal and hazard bulbs, or use a DPDT hazard switch and wire it as shown in the wiring diagram below.

Here is a wiring diagram showing how to wire a fuse holder to the circuit.

Please let me know if you have any questions.
I am still slightly confused about the hazard switch you are using in your diagrams. My understanding to your diagram is that I need to switch 2 switches on the DP3T in order for my hazard lights to come on? (One switch for Left and One for right) I was hoping to use a SPST switch for this (just like in a car, except that a car uses a ON/OFF Push button switch instead of a toggle(SPST) switch). This way I can have the hazard switch in a different location then on my handlebar switch pad as there is only so much room on the switch pad due to it being a recumbent trike.

Also, how can the tail light run when they are connected for the brakes? I assume the amps of the fuse need to match or be higher than the amps being pulled from the battery?

Thanks again for all your help.


Well, ok. Now I understand where I went wrong on using single filament bulbs for the turn signals and have that figured out thanks to your recent information (will add a new diagram once I complete it), but I am still confused on how to use my brake lights as both the brake lights and the running lights (just like on a car/motorcycle/scooter) using only single filament bulbs and also which fuse amps to use.



In my diagram the hazard switch uses a single DPDT switch such as a C&K 7201SYZBE toggle switch or NKK MB2061SS1W01-CC push button switch. Both of these are single switches with one lever or button.

Good point about the brake lights and taillights needing to have separate filaments or bulbs, I kind of forgot about that. On most vehicles the taillight and brake light share a dual filament dual contact bulb with the taillight having a lower Watt filament than the brake light, so the brake light is brighter than the taillight. There is no reason why the taillights and brake lights could not each have their own single filament bulbs either though as long as the brake light bulbs were brighter than the tail light bulbs. My diagrams show separate bulbs for the brake and tail lights however they could share a dual filament dual contact bulb so you don't need to have so many lamp holders on the bike.

I usually use a fuse that is rated for twice the amount of Amps that the circuit it is protecting as long as the gauge and length of wire in the circuit is rated to handle that fuse of size. Otherwise I would use a fuse that is rated for the gauge and length of wire that is being used.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Hopefully this solves all issues (had to repost as I saw a small cross wiring error that had to be fixed).


I like your idea of using a relay so that a simple SPST hazard switch could be used. However I did find a couple of areas in your most recent wiring diagram that need correction in order for it to work.

In your most recent wiring diagram:
  • The 3 pin blinker relay is wired so that it is constantly on, which would put a continuous load on the battery pack. This could easily be solved by switching back to a 2 pin blinker relay.
  • The SPDT relay is wired so that the right turn signal bulbs are on when the hazard switch is off, and the left turn signal bulbs are on when the hazard switch is on, and both left and right turn signal bulbs would not blink at the same time. To solve this two SPDT relays could be used as shown in the wiring diagram below.

OK. Let's see if this is the one.


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