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Circus car vol 2

We are getting close to completing this project, but I have a question.  

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I have a female connector with a black and a red wire coming off of the positive terminal in the center of the controller and the negative terminal on the side of the controller.  There is a male connector with a blue and a white wire coming out of the silver junction box with a label saying 2 Reverse.  Do I connect these together?

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Hi Rick, sorry for this very late reply, we got so many forum replies last week that yours got buried and I did not see it until now. If you ever fail to get a timely response from us then please reply again as you have today so it gets bumped to the top of the list and noticed.

Headlights should not be powered from the controller, as the controller is only designed to power lower Watt taillights and indicator lights. The best way to power 36 Volt headlights is directly from the battery pack with a switch to turn them on and off. If you order our chrome fender mount headlight then I recommend our item # LIT-2536 as it is better quality than the item # LIT-236 headlight. We could make a kit with the headlight(s), wiring with battery connectors, and toggle switch for this if you would like.

The silver box that all of the wires go to is called the controller, and the black unit with ring terminal posts is called the reverse relay.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

I'm thinking that I should just go with the 12 volt lights and get a 12 volt battery and run lights, horns, sirens etc all from seperate 12 volt battery.  My car is supposed to be an old timey thing, and I think your chrome headlights LIT 2512 will look better than the black round utility tractor lights I can get from an auto parts store.


Most of my shows are during the day and even when I do use the lights, it's only for 15 minutes a day.  I use the  12 volt Aooogah horn, a  little siren and some LED strip lights. 

What can I use to distribute 12 volts to six different devices.  What about some kind of terminal strip with six or more positions?  I'll use toggle switches for the lights, and the car still has the buttons for the horn and siren.  I need the two headlights, a battery and some way to distribute the power. What do you think?



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The power distribution block shown above would work however two of them would be needed (one for the positive wires and one for the negative wires) and they are expensive compared to the simple task that they would perform.

An easier to install and less expensive solution would be Wago pluggable terminal blocks which only cost around 75 cents each. Here is a link to a page they are sold on: http://www.newark.com/wago/222-415/terminal-block-pluggable-5-position/dp/28K2062

Here is a photo showing how they work:

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These type of connectors are only available with holes for up to five wires however two of them could be joined together with a jumper wire in order to be able to wire seven output wires to a single input wire.

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Although not necessary and space consuming, the wires and terminal blocks could be contained inside of a PVC junction box for a tidier appearance. http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-E989NNJ-CAR/100404097


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OK. Wago it is. 

I guess all I need to do is go to your site and order the lights, switches, and a battery.

Is there anything else I can order from your site for this?

The only other thing that I can think of right now would be a 12 Volt automatic battery charger unless you already have one. It would also be good to have a fuse holder and fuse in the 12 volt electrical system to protect against short circuits.

Yes, I need a battery charger.  I have the type with alligator clamps, but I would want to be able to plug into a port.  My 36 volt charger has the three pin port and I would want the 12 volt to be different, so there would be no mistakes.  


I'm just guessing at which battery to get, so my guess is BAT-12v10A.  What do you think?

My 36 volt charger has a 3 pin XLR connector and I want to get something different for the 12 volt charger.

When do I choose 2 or 3 port and what is meant by 'inline'?   Assuming I want or need the 3 port, would CHR-12v1A3P be a good choice?

I reviewed your comments on the electronics that will be connected to the 12 Volt battery and noticed there will be two 10 Watt headlights (20 Watts), one Aoooga horn (~100 Watts), a little siren (~50 Watts?), and some LED light strips (10 Watts?). So the most amount of power that could be drawn from the battery at one time should be around 180 Watts. The minimum recommended battery size for a 12 Volt 180 Watt (15 Amp) load is 8Ah, so a 10 Ah battery would be a good choice.

I imagine that the horn and siren will only be used intermittently so the average load on the battery will be much less than 180 Watts. If the average load was let's say 90 Watts then the 10Ah battery would last for around 30 to 40 minutes before it needed to be recharged.

Great idea to use a different charger port for the 12 Volt battery so that a charging Voltage mistake could not be made.

A CHR-12V1A3P 12 Volt 1 Amp charger is a good size for a 12 Volt 10Ah battery, and if a 10Ah battery is deeply discharged a 1 Amp charger will recharge it in 12 hours.

Either a 2-port or 3-port inline plug would work. On the 3-port plugs only two of the ports are used and the third port is not used. I recommend getting a charger with 3-port inline plug though because they are more common so they cost a little less. The 3-port plugs are also a little stronger than the 2-port plugs because they have an extra pin.

"Inline" is a term that we use for a certain type of charger plug and port. This is a term that we started using 15 years ago because we heard them called that and as far as I know it is used exclusively by us. It winds up that "inline" refers to any plug that attaches to the end of a wire or cable (in line) and does not refer specifically to the plugs that we call "inline". However by the time we realized this it was too late and we had already established calling them inline plugs so there was no turning back.

I'm ready to buy the battery, charger, charger port and 6 switches with the attached wires, fuse holder and fuse and the  headlights.

Is this something you put together as a kit or should I just pick out the parts in your online store?


I don't really understand how I would use the Wago connectors.  I need to take a positive wire and a negative from the battery and then connect them to around six different things.  The battery has push on connectors, so only one wire is attaching directly to the battery.  It seems like I need something like this to divvy up the juice.  What do you think?

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https://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--pro-installer-z-link-bus-bar-18-circuits--15799018?recordNum=37



That Z-Link bus bar is a very good solution to distributing the battery power to the parts that are connected to it. It would provide a cleaner and more professional look to the installation than Wago power distribution blocks would. I only suggested the Wago power distribution blocks as a more economical alternative to using a bus bar. However if the difference in price is not a deciding factor then using the bus bar would be my number one choice.

Just to elaborate on installing the Wago connectors here is a wiring diagram showing how to wire them for an application like yours.

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We could make a kit out of all of the parts that you mentioned. To make the kit we would need to know the outside diameter of the bus bar's stud and screw threads (if the Marinco pro installer z-link buss bar is used then it has 6mm studs and 4mm screw threads), and we would also need to know how long to make the wires for the kit. 


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If you would like to have a kit made then please let us know the model of bus bar and wire lengths for the kit and I will go ahead and make it and post a link to it here.

I won't know the wire lengths until I start putting things together, but I'm OK with making all of those connections, so I won't need the kit.  I'll order the parts from ESP and the bus bar from West Marine.

When using a toggle switch for lights, does it matter if the switch is on the positive or negative wire?

Code

Item

Qty

Price

Grand Total

BAT-12V12A

BAT-12V12A, 12 Volt 12 Ah Battery Model WP12-12/T2 With 12 Month Warranty

1

$39.95

$39.95

LIT-2512

2-1/2" 12V 10W Halogen Electric Scooter Chrome Headlight (LIT-2512)

2

$19.95

$39.90

CHR-12V3A3P

12 Volt 3 Amp Automatic Battery Charger With 3-Port Inline Plug (CHR-12V3A3P)

1

$24.95

$24.95

SWT-100

Toggle Power Switch with 18" Wires (SWT-100)

4

$4.95

$19.80

WIR-100

WIR-100, 22 Gauge Black Power Cable Wire (Sold By The Foot)

20

$0.14

$2.80

WIR-101

WIR-101, 22 Gauge Red Power Cable Wire (Sold By The Foot)

20

$0.14

$2.80

WIR-105

WIR-105, 20 Gauge Black Power Cable Wire (Sold By The Foot)

3

$0.18

$0.54

WIR-106

WIR-106, 20 Gauge Red Power Cable Wire (Sold By The Foot)

3

$0.18

$0.54

FUS-360

ATO Fuse Holder with 14 Gauge Red Wire and 1/4" Push-On Connectors (FUS-360)

1

$2.95

$2.95

CNX-515

3 Pin Inline Charger Port with Wires (CNX-515)

1

$5.95

$5.95


This is what I ordered.  What do you think?  What size fuse should I use?

I understand about not knowing the wire lengths until the job is started. That is just the nature of wiring these kind of parts together on a vehicle.

The toggle switches for lights or anything else they could be on the positive or negative wire. Switches are practically always on the positive wire though for no reason other than uniformity. I would wire the switches on the positive wire just in case someone else works on it in the future because that is how they will expect for it to be wired.

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