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Razor Scooter 325 will not move with any weight.

I have a Razor 325 Scooter that will not move with any weight...like 60 pounds from my 7 year old. I tried to fix it a couple of years ago after getting new batteries. The repair shop replaced the Motor, Throttle and Control Box. The unit only worked for about 6 months and then kept going through batteries and now it has brand new batteries (for the 5th time) but still will not operate with any weight. Have verified battery connections and output.  When you lift up the unit it runs and the rear wheel spins freely. Throttle shows proper voltage and charge.  Can you please advise on what part or parts I should buy from you to fix this issue.....Thanks!!!

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1 person has this question
Since both chargers are not going into charge mode and showing a red light, it sounds like the charger port is not getting power from the battery pack. I would test the Voltage at the charger port on the scooter, and at the battery charger plug. The charger port should be reading the full Voltage of the battery pack, which should be around 27-29 Volts. And the chargers should be reading a Voltage around 29 or more Volts.

 

Thanks for looking into this further and finding the possible solution.  The red light does not come on when charging....it stays green as it had been.  Appreciate the help.

Making more progress....the scooter charger blinks when connecting but stays green.  If I leave the scooter on/off power switch "on" the charger turns red.  Thx

It sounds like the batteries may be only slightly discharged or possibly overcharged so the charger is not kicking in to charge them. The blinking green light usually happens when the batteries are finishing their charge cycle. When the power switch is "on" that puts an extra load on the charger causing its light to turn red. I would have someone drive the scooter for 10-20 minutes to deeply discharge the batteries, and then try charging them and see if you get a solid red light then. 

The light is solid green when pugged in and the power button is off.  The only blinking occurs when initially plugged in you can now see the charger light blink once before going solid.  It did not do anything before but turn green. 

The scooter will charge when the power button in on.  The light will turn red and then turn green when fully charged.  Anyway to have the scooter charge and not turn the power button on?  Thx

The new adapter I sent directly connects the charger port to the battery pack without going through the switch or controller. So it should not make any difference if the switch is on or off, the battery pack should charge either way now. I would like to confirm that the new adapter was made correctly though to verify. Could you take a couple pictures of the new adapter as it is installed so I can confirm that it was made right?


The new connector picture....as requested.  Please advise.

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It looks like the wiring harness has been modified. I can not see a positive red wire going to the battery pack connector.

Can you check to verify if the battery pack connector is missing its red positive wire.

For reference here is the way that factory wired the scooter.

I can not see where the red positive wire from the battery pack is going in the photos. It looks like the shop that worked on it before modified the wiring harness to install the controller they replaced. The red positive wire from the battery pack will need to be reconnected to the battery pack connector in order for everything to work with the harness we made.


Also, I notice that we made a mistake on the adapter and the charger port is connected to the wrong side of it. However this will not affect anything the way it is wired right now because of the missing wire in the battery pack connector. We will remake the adapter the right way and send it to you. Then when the red positive battery pack wire is reattached to the connector everything should work right.


If you need a new terminal for the positive battery pack wire to go into the connector please let me know and I will include one with the new adapter we are going to send you.

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The battery pack has all wires connected.  The first connection from the better goes to Battery +/- and to On/off connector  the middle connector has two wires from rear to charging and on/off switch.  The 3rd has three wires to controller.  see pics

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Yes,  We have the scooter working and charges only when the power switch is turned on. 


It originally did not charge but remembering one of your earlier posts and trouble shooting tactics I turned on the power switch and it charges in this position.  Thanks again for all the help.

The scooter appears to be fixed!I installed the new wiring harness and the scooter appears to charge and run properly.We tested briefly due to weather and will do it again after the weather clears.The local scooter shop was not able to repair and I appreciate your time and support to help get the scooter fixed.I have also passed your info on to my local battery shop where I purchased the batteries as they get inquiries on the best way to repair.I will advise if we run into any further issues….but we should be all set!Thanks again!!


I know this is an old thread, but was hoping you could answer my question.  I have done a bunch of testing on my scooter and found that the batteries are good.  I bypassed the power switch as well as the relay and I think they are both good.  When I hook up the everything bypassing the switch and relay, I get like 19v out of the yellow and blue wires that plug into the motor connector.  This is only for a brief second.  I hear a click somewhere, possibly the control module, then the voltage drops to somewhere around 1-3v.  I am thinking the control module may need to be replaced, but not sure if it could be the throttle? Any thoughts?

Thank you,

 

The next step I would take is to test the Voltage of the battery pack with the power on and throttle at zero, and then while keeping an eye on the battery pack Voltage, fully twist the throttle. The battery pack Voltage should start out around 27 or 28 Volts with the throttle released, and should not drop under 24 Volts when the throttle is fully twisted.


If during this test the battery pack Voltage does not drop under 24 Volts then the problem could be with the controller, throttle, or motor. The most likely part to fail in this case is the controller. Throttles usually do not fail unless they are physically damaged, however on rare occasion they do fail on their own.


The motor is the least likely part to fail however testing it by connecting it to a battery is a good way to verify that it works and rule it out as the problem. If the motor tests good then the diagnosis points towards the throttle or controller being faulty. Both of these parts could be replaced at the same time, or the throttle could be tested to narrow down which of these two parts is causing the problem.


The method to test the throttle depends on whether the throttle has indicator lights on it or not. If it has indicator lights then it is a variable speed hall-effect throttle, and if the throttle does not have indicator lights on it then it is a single speed on/off throttle.


Variable speed throttles with lights can be tested using the speed controller's Red, Black, and Green wires that go to the throttle connector, using this method:


Step 1: Test Throttle Output Voltage of Controller


Step 2: Test Signal Voltage of Throttle


If the controller does not output 4.3 through 5 Volts to the throttle then it is either not receiving power, not receiving enough power, or not working properly. If the controller outputs 4.3 through 5 Volts to the throttle then the throttle can be tested using the method of the bottom drawing. The throttle's output Voltage should be around 0.8 Volts at its resting position, and around 4.3 Volts when fully twisted. If the throttle has zero Volts of output, or does not go above 0.8 Volts when fully engaged, then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.


Single speed throttles without lights can be tested by checking continuity between their two orange wires and between their two brown wires. The orange-orange wires and brown-brown wires should have no continuity when the throttle is at its resting position, and have continuity when fully engaged.


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