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Installing Turn Signals

Hi, my name's anthony and I'm looking to buy turning signals for my electronic scooter, but I don't know how to go about it. My scooter doesn't have one already, so I'm not just replacing parts but installing the entire thing. I was hoping for a little direction: can you tell me what I'll be needing to make this attachment complete? A simple google search hasn't been a lot of help. tks

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First of all I would like to thank you for posting this question on our forum. There are two ways to go about installing turn signals on an electric scooter. You could install a battery operated bicycle turn signal like this.

These bicycle type of turn signals are not very bright or well made but they are easy to install. They run on two AA batteries located inside the turn signal housing so no external wiring is required to install them.


Or you could install real electric scooter turn signals like this.

Along with a handlebar mounted turn signal switch like this.

These type of turn signals run off the scooters battery pack, are bright, and well made. Installing these parts requires attaching the turn signal lights onto the scooter either by drilling holes into the body if there is a good place to do so, or by making mounting brackets for them. The switch also needs to be mounted on the handlebars which is easy to do. Then the turn signal relay needs to be installed and everything wired together. Here is what a turn signal relay looks like.

Here is a wiring diagram for installing these parts


All of the parts listed above are available on this page: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/turnsignals.html


If you have any further questions or would like more detailed directions regarding how to install these parts on your scooter please let me know. We are here to help.

Hi. Could you please provide a wiring guide for installing four lights (two up front, two on the back)? That's the setup I wish to have.

Here is a wiring schematic for two sets of turn signals.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the graph. I'm debating between beeping and no beeping. I got a set of cheap, ineffective bicycle signals a while back, it features a loud, obnoxious sounding electrical beeping that can't even be turned off. I'm curious on what the beeping of the flasher relays in your store sounds like. I wouldn't mind having beeping so that I'm less likely to forget to turn the signals off, but if they sound anything like those cheap toy signals, I won't bother getting a beeping flasher.


Also, is there any way to enable a hazard/emergency flasher mode with the turn signals? I noticed that the switches in the store don't seem to have that option.

It can be difficult to describe a sound with words but I will try my best. The turn signal beeping sound is created by a very small piezoelectric beeper. The volume is not too loud in my opinion but can be easily heard over other noises because it is fairly high pitched. It goes beep....beep....beep when the turn signals are on. The beeping sound volume could be lowered if a piece of electrical tape was stuck over the holes that the sound comes out of if it is too loud for you.

None of the turn signal switches that we carry have hazard/emergency switches on them. I am not sure if the turn signal relay could handle operating four light bulbs at the same time, so I can not recommend doing that. I know that our turn signal relays can safely operate two light bulbs though.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Would it be possible to expand this awesome diagram to show the brake's electrical switches configured to interact with the turn signal circuitry? Thank You, Bil Townsend Posey, TX
Hi Bill, usually the brake light or brake lights are completely separate and independent from the turn signal lights so they can both operate at the same time as they often need to do.

Here is a diagram showing how to wire two sets of turn signals and one set of brake lights independently but from the same source of power. With this circuit the brake lights do not interact with the turn signals though because if they did then one of the brake lights would momentarily  turn off when the turn signal flashed.

If you are looking for a circuit where the turn signals and brake lights share the same two bulbs then please let me know and I will see if I can figure that out.
Thank you for your prompt and thorough response. I would be very grateful If you can help me figure out a circuit that will allow the rear turn signal lamps on both sides to be lit solid, front signal lamps off, when the brakes are applied and allow the front and rear indicators to blink on the correct side when the turn signal switch is selected and the side not selected remains lit solid in the rear and unlit in the front. I have plenty relays on hand and, while completely unnecessary, I think it would be the preferred configuration if we can figure it out.
I checked and none of the parts that we have, or combinations of parts that we have could accomplish the goal of using one single filament bulb for both the turn signal and brake light. Using dual filament bulbs for the running and brake lights, and single filament bulbs for the turn signals is the only way I can think of to wire the circuit using the parts that we have available.
Hello.

I am looking for the very same as above but with included hazard lights which run using the same bulbs as the turn signals since the turn signals are not needed if the hazards are running. I also would like to add some headlights with high beam capabilities.

I am also curious as to the smallest possible battery that can be used for this setup. This is being installed to a recumbent trike for a very long trip across the country. Once I return home from my trip I want to replicate this onto my wife's scooter.

Thanks in advance for your time and help.

 

I should specify that when I said I would like the same as above I meant the same as the last above diagram you posted including 4 signals and brake lights. I should of also pointed out that in the case of my recumbent I have 2 independent brake levers so I need 2 brake levers with the ability to join the switch wires so that no matter which brake lever I pull on or if I pull on both then the brake lights come on. I plan to use my own custom signal controller as I prefer toggle switches.

Thanks again.

 

I happen to have a set up on a recumbent trike, minus the brake lights, though I may add them in the future. Using a 12-volt lead acid battery from an older motorcycle, I possess four lights on the bike, two facing forward and two facing backwards. A switch on the handlebars with three positions, plus two switches on the battery. One of which turn the taillights on/off (has no effect on the turn signal function), and the other which activates the hazard mode-- Instead of two bulbs flashing when the handlebar switch is pushed either left or right, all four will flash. My trike just happens to have an area on the frame which conveniently fits the battery. Friction and some type of glue is all that was needed to secure the battery to the trike. I don't know all of the details to the set up, as I had a friend put it together for me with minimal involvement from myself.


I ran a test to see how long the battery could run the bulbs with the taillights on, hazards running, before getting too low to function adequately. I estimated it to be around or over 12 hours. I typically try to stay within the 12 hour limit before recharging the battery. I don't have any sort of recharging feature on the bike's pedals, etc, and I have no clue if it would effectively maintain the charge of an old motorcycle battery running four automotive LEDs or not. I also have a cargo trailer with lights set up on it. It connects to the battery on my trike via a DIY wiring harness. It cuts the battery's run on a full charge down to 7-9 hours, so I'm considering getting a larger battery. Weight and size isn't a huge concern for me, as my recumbent trike is sort of a road bike/cargo bike hybrid-- designed with both purposes in mind, able to reach and maintain decent speed even when loaded down.


If you plan to do long distance traveling, definitely make sure that you have some way to charge the battery. I've already experienced how my light system behaves when the battery gets too low, and it isn't very fun when I'm still a little ways from home where the battery charger is.

After more thought and planning I have indeed actually decided to go a slightly different route in regards to the battery. I will still be using a 12V battery so that I can make use of the scooter parts, but I will not be using a Lead Acid Type Battery. Instead I will be using a 12V 20AH LITHIUM ION Battery. This should allow for a longer duration before recharge and is also approximately 70% lighter in weight coming in at only 7.7lbs. Not to mention charging the battery while on the road will be much easier and can, in most cases, be done while I sleep. I'll be traveling over 9000KM so I must make sure all the chargers are packed (They're first on my checklist). I thought about the same dilemma with using extra lights on the trailer so I instead devised a way to remove the light bar add in extension wires and then reattach it to the trailer. This way during the times when I am hauling the trailer I do not have to use extra power from the battery. Thanks to the smaller size in the battery it will fit snugly behind my seat along with the batteries for my BMC V3 Motor. I had thought about using LEDs for my all my lights but in the end decided against it due to lack of brightness. I will be in some very dark places along my trip.

 

I made two wiring diagrams for turn signal, brake, and hazard lights using both the turn signals lights and brake lights as the hazard lights.

Here is the wiring diagram using the turn signal lights for the hazard lights:

And here is the wiring diagram using the brake lights for the hazard lights:

I attached printable PDF files of these two wiring diagrams.


Please let me know if you have any questions.
pdf
pdf

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