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New Speed Controller for Pukka

I don't know if many people here have a Pukka, but I ordered the speed controller from this site to replace the old one. The connectors are opposite (the connectors on the bike are male and the connectors on the controller are male) and I am having a horrible time trying to find new ones. Has anyone rewired a Pukka speed controller before? How did you do it? Also, how did you mount it to the plate? I think I am going to have to use zip ties :/  The last problem I have is that the two wires that connect to the key switches could not be unconnected from the original controller without actually taking the connectors off the circuit board. I did not do this, the previous owner did and now I have no idea how to connect the key switches back... I don't really care if the bike is only on high speed. Can I just splice the wires into the new controller?

First of all I would like to thank you for joining our repair help forum. I have helped dozens of people retrofit our aftermarket speed controller onto their Pukka electric mini bikes.

The wires can be spliced into the new controller, in fact if the splice is soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing the connections will be superior to any type of connector that is available. The one thing to be considered when cutting and splicing the wires is that the connectors separate and indicate what component each wire goes to, and if the connectors are cut off, the wires will not have any marking on them indicating what they are for. So I recommend tagging each set of wires with tape and writing the function of the wires on the tape before cutting the connector off. Duct tape cut into 1/2" wide strips work good for this but I prefer to use that white first aid tape that you get at the pharmacy because it is easier to write on and see than duct tape.

If you want to use wire connectors instead of cutting and splicing the wires, the connectors on either the controller or Pukka harness will need to be replaced. Since original Pukka controllers are no longer available I recommend changing the connectors on the harness, that way if you need to replace the controller again the new controller will be plug and play.  We sell matching connectors for our controllers on this page:

The terminals on these type of connectors can be attached to the wires with a special crimping tool that we sell on the terminals page, however the crimping tool is not necessary for small one-time jobs because the wires can be soldered onto the terminals and an ordinary pair of pliers can be used to gently bend the terminal tabs around the wire after they are soldered.

For mounting the new controller two holes could be drilled into the plate and it could be mounted with nuts and bolts, or it could be zip tied as you suggested, or double sided tape could be used to mount it to the plate. 

Regarding the key switches, the new controller does not have a high/low feature, so only one key switch needs to be connected to it. The key switch wire could be cut off the old controller and attached to the new controller by splicing or by using a connector that matches the one on the controller.

Please let me know if I missed any questions or if you have any further questions.

I changed out all the connections so they match, but I have a new problem. There is power running through the system even though there is not a key in the switch. I attached the power, motor, brake lever, throttle and key switch connecters, leaving out the other "optional" connections listed on the instructions. Even when I disconnect the key switch wires, I still have a current. Any suggestions on how to trace this problem? The current is enough that it'll melt a fuse if I try to complete the circuit. I am afraid to try much because I don't want to fry the brand new controller. During the connector switch, I labeled the wires to make sure I had the right ones going to the right place. 

The first thing that I would test is the battery pack polarity going to the controller, and that the polarity between the battery pack and controller is correct. Reverse polarity could cause the problem you are describing, especially the blowing fuses. If you would like to attach a photo of the installation I would be glad to take a look at the wiring and see if anything looks out of place.
Yay! New speed controllers installed on both my pukkas! Now I am replacing a motor.any suggestions on mounting the new one since it doesn't have a spring hinge? I don't really have access to any fabrication equipment to create a new one
One idea I have is to modify the holes in the mounting plate and turn them into slots so the motor can slide forward and backward to adjust the chain tension. This could be done with a power drill and drill bit, and a round bastard file (the term bastard refers to the file being coarse and not smooth - for fast filing).

If the new motor mounting plate holes align with the original mounting plate holes then a second hole could be drilled above or below the original holes and the the metal between the two holes could be removed with a file. Or if the new motor mounting holes and the original mounting holes in the mounting plate do not align then two new holes could be drilled for each slot and the metal removed in between them with a file.

Please let me know how this works or if you have any questions.

Thank you a million for all the help with my Pukka scooters! You guys have been great, even though it has taken me sometime to get them both up and running. 

I have a new problem however...the stem tore out of the hub on my rear tire. I tried using a screw puller to get it out so a tire shop could put a new one in, but no luck. Anyone have an idea for how to get a stem in the hub or the tire so I can get air in it? 

I love these scooters. I powder coated one and put customer stickers on it (Utah State University) and it looks awesome (its for sale by the way). The other I am keeping its original paint job and stickers, using it for work. Id highly recommend these scooters to anyone. 

You are welcome. Great to hear that you got them both running but sorry to hear about the valve stem tearing off.

I can see how a screw extractor might have a hard time catching onto the soft brass valve stem and if it does then expanding the brass making it impossible to unthread.

One idea that I have is to file two slots opposite of each other inside of the valve stem with a rectangular needle file (if you can find one small enough to fit inside of the stem) and then try to unthread the stem with a screwdriver.

If that does not work then you might want to try filing the valve stem all the way through on two sides so it will collapse and can then be pulled out without unthreading. This will make a couple of slots in the rim's valve stem threads though so the new valve stem would need to be installed with sealant or glue to seal the slots and prevent air from leaking.

Please let us know how it goes.

Unfortunately, the housing that holds the actual stem tore (the rubber around the edge), so I am left with a hole in the tire basically. I was thinking maybe I could remove it all the way and glue another one in from the inside. 

I understand the problem better now. Please let us know how it goes.

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