If it still does not run after pressing the safety button then the next step I would take is to look for loose or disconnected connectors, or for any wires that may have been cut or broken during the move.
These motor wires may need to be checked by hand to make sure that the copper wires under the plastic insulation are not broken. This can be accomplished by bending the wires one at a time up and down the length of the wires and feeling how much bending resistance the individual wires create, then feeling if in one particular area the bending resistance is less than it is in the rest of the wires. If you are handy with electronics and own a multimeter it can also be used to check the resistance of these wires as they are being bent up and down the length of the wires.
Shana Hoercher replied through email: "That diagram that you sent there was no safety switch button anywhere located on the crazy kart the only switch or button that is located on the crazy car is the on off switch. When I press the gas pedal down I can hear the actuator kick on but it does not give any power from that point on. I'm not sure what to do now. Any ideas?"
You must have an early version of the Crazy Cart that does not have a safety switch button. Where on the cart is the sound of the actuator kicking on coming from?
Razor Crazy Cart replaced batteries, tested making sure throttle is sending juice to module, yes 4.3 volts.
kill switch open position, tested no power coming out to motor - disconnected steering wheel kill switch from module, tested, no power yet I have 4.3 volts going into module. Replaced module twice, no power coming out of module when pushing in on throttle.
New batteries test 26v
Power going in and out of throttle to module
No power testing wires coming out to motor, disconnected plug to motor, tested, no power?
Any ideas? Is it possible I bought two bad modules?
Although not impossible, the chance of getting one bad controller is very unlikely, and of getting two bad controllers in a row is incredibly unlikely.
Since the throttle is receiving power from the controller and sending power back to it that proves that the battery pack wiring harness, fuse and fuse holder, battery connector, and power switch are good.
The foot throttle has a switch in it which may have failed so we recommend unplugging the throttle from the controller and testing the continuity of the foot throttle's green and yellow wires. The green and yellow wires should have no continuity when the throttle is released and should have continuity when the throttle is engaged.
If the throttle switch tests good then, if you have not already done so, we recommend testing the battery pack Voltage under load with the power switch on and throttle engaged to see if it drops under 23 volts while under load. If it drops under 23 Volts then that points towards a problem with the battery pack. The controller will not send power to the motor when it detects that the battery pack is under 23 Volts.
If the throttle switch tests good, and battery pack test good under load, then we recommend bridging the kill switch wires together to see if that helps because the kill switch (safety button) may be a normally closed type of switch.
Please let us know how it goes.