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Throttle Dies on Bodo EV Hurricane 72V Electric Scooter

I own a 72 Volt hurricane classic. For full specs see link.

My issue is while driving. Lights run, battery is full charge, within four kilometers of driving the throttle loses power completely. Lights remain on. If i turn the lights off, power is restored to the throttle. It has been to 2 separate ebike mechanics in my area and no one can fix this issue... 

Does anyone have any insight on this??? 

When the scooter looses power after driving it for four kilometers and you then turn the lights off, how many kilometers more does the scooter drive after that?

Drives perfect. Will go to low battery, needing recharge. Entire light system was replaced by 2nd mechanic. Issue happened prior to repair though.

When the scooter's indicator shows "low battery" that means the battery pack Voltage is too low which will cause the scooter to stop running.

It sounds to me like one or more of the batteries may be worn out or faulty. Since it is a 72 Volt electric scooter there are six 12 Volt batteries in it. The first step I would take is to have all of six of the batteries individually load tested at a local battery store such as Batteries Plus.

The battery load test results will show whether the one or more of the batteries are causing the problem. The type of batteries that are in the Bodo Hurricane electric scooter are sealed lead-acid. These type of batteries typically only last around 300 discharge and recharge cycles, or 2-3 years regardless of they were used or sitting idle in storage. And they need to be recharged every 30 days when they are not being used or they will become faulty from being undercharged.

If you know that the batteries are over a few years old, or have been sitting for a long time without being recharged, or have been used for over 300 cycles then you can safely assume that they need to be replaced. If you are not sure of the battery pack's history because it is a second hand scooter, then a load test of the individual batteries can determine their condition.

If you determine that one or more of the batteries fails the load test, then the entire battery pack should be replaced at the same time. As different brands of lead acid batteries should not be mixed together, and batteries that are different ages should not be mixed together either. Different battery brands use different chemistries for the plates and acids inside of their batteries, and if they are mixed together the different chemistries can react to each other and damage the batteries or lower their lifespan.

Hey esp, 

Ive run into another issue tonight while I was out driving/parked.

Tonight I did my drive, got to my destination, set my alarm with the fob and returned a few moments later when a coworker bumped the bike: bike was on its rear kickstand and wasnt knocked over.  I disabled the alarm with the fob. The lights on my bike remained on even after disabling as did the main digital display, and when i went to get on, then insert my key to start ignition, my hand turned the throttle (no key in it yet!) and my motor ran... 

What is going on here?

Also, the alarm set will not work on the fob (neither fob I have will set the alarm) but all other features work( unset, light show alarm, test alarm) 

Last night, I was able to drive my bike without the key in the ignition! 

Parking the bike, I have to use the light switch to turn off the lights for parking it, or they will continue to run... throttle still powers motor with no key... 

I'm at a loss... i'm thinking stick of dynamite may be easier to solve this issue

*still working on new batteries and testing them for previous issue* 

Hi Tara,

These type of electrical glitches (or gremlins) are common with most vehicles that have a lot of electrical features and computers. One thing you could try is to disconnect one of the battery wires from the battery pack and leave it disconnected for 10 minutes or longer, and then reconnect it and see if the problems go away. This will reset the computer which might help.

If that does not help then you could try disconnecting, cleaning, and reconnecting the wire connectors in the scooter because it is possible that some of the connections may have gotten wet or moist and have corroded so they are not making good contact anymore. To clean the connector terminal simply spray electrical contact cleaner (available at auto parts and electronic stores) on the connector terminals and then plug them together and unplug them several times before finally plugging them together.

If these simple and cheap fixes do not help then the next step would be replacing major electrical parts which hopefully will not need to be done.

Please let us know how it goes.

Is your hurricane the bodo ev Classic or sports ? Are you still experiencing the issue ?

Classic. 72volt. I posted the link to the stats in original enquiry. Yes I am having the issue still. All new lights, new controller as well. Next to be replaced will be the entire ignition and throttle system. Its not even a year old yet.

I own the 72 (now a 96v) hehe..

The controller has a overheat feature. If the controller gets hot.. It cuts out.

The alarm on mine has the ability (stock) to engage the ignition (lighting bolt) that remote starts.

If you press that button it will stay on until you hit the lock key then unlock. (i have disabled that on the alarm system since anyone with a frequency remote clone can start your bike and drive off)

When then kickstand is down it applies the same brake cut off to the controller. (does not apply to the stand)

Stock bike I got about 20km before the batteries die.. being nice on it.. Never passing 2nd gear and using the three speed switch while driving  The throttle is a 3 pin +5v.. So 4 km and ur bike is dead sounds like it is overheating or weak batteries.. The voltage battery indicator sucks on the hurricane (used a 3 digit water proof led meter from ebay for like $10 from china) You will have to pull out your batteries to test each voltage to insure after a full charge and 30 min cool down that all your batteries are 13.50 volts (minimum)

The controller wiring is under the seat. usually in a black plastic type bag facing the rear of the bike. A access panel with two screws to the left and right and three at the bottom.

Thank you! Didnt know that damn controller had a cut off built in... now that I know, i'll go do some slight upgrading :p 

Hehehehe *has need for speed* 

And yes the batteries will most likely need replacing. I'm noticing the draw and die on it comes much sooner.

And i own a multimeter.. so it wont be a big deal to check them individually.. ;) 

Just need the time to get I i use my bike for work (deliveries)... 

Thinking of pushing the upgrading to high rated controller from an army vehicle and upping the batteries like you have.. but further *innocent look* 

Thanks for the info eh! Much appreciated..

A now very happy e-biker chick from canada 

Ah.. and fyi I disabled the kickstand breaker by readjusting its position so its not engaged when the stand is set. :) 

I use the sunwin 96v *500 brushless watt controller (ebay) (yes the bodo 72v ships *500 watt motor) replace * with 1 as I am not to be blabbing about it. I can do 70 (gps confirmed and dash controller tweaked to display proper speed with 8 batteries and 240lb guy). Adding batteries inside the seat storage and replacing the weak battery connectors with 10 gauge and gold plated connectors.. You can leave traffic behind ya :)

The sunwin xxv controller is the only one I found where I only had to swap the speed switch cable pins without having to hack up the pin connectors yellow is blue and blue is yellow from controller side. Only had to add a spade connector to the multi meter cable. Also check your front wheel. To insure it spins free.. Mine also has a poor aligned front disk break (added a few washers to the bolts and it spins freely) They also make the legal 500-800 watt controller if you do not want to learn your bike all over again.

Learn my bike? Lmao hell i'd live for the challenge of it. I'm ready to move up..

Taste it bad enough i'm on the verge of going for my m1/m2 course just for the rush ....

Front wheel is ok on spin I use high heat motorcycle lube to keep it flowing.. however my brake is misaligned and jitters.. so will check on align. 

Also adding some computer fans with plastic ties is a good idea to insure the summer months you are not going to burn out the controller (i have two 80mm fans on the controller and one with a aluminum cut out 90 degree and have my phase wires exposed with washers added to help dissipate the heat since that is a weak point (ive melted the plastic some and a buddy had one and it caught on fire using stock controller and using a extra battery (at some point i'll attempt to upgrade the phase wires to take more current) Stock controller can pull 30-35 amps. Sunwin pulls 45 amps at start. 

The bike can take a extra batter.. Any more and u'll burn out the alarm and melt your controller wires using the stock controller. Remember to upgrade the DC to DC converter and check the labels on what is the xx voltage in and 12v out as they vary from brand to brand.

Well aware of the current change.. as i said was going to go for an army vehicle controller *ahem*... and run 6 - 24vs wonder what i'd hit for max speed.. may have to upgrade the rim hub though lol may end up burning that out :( 

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