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crazy cart - i dont think i am getting power to the motor

Hi, i have a version 1 crazy cart and i cannot get it to run.  If I directly connect the motor to the battery the motor works.  I have read that broken motor wires is a typical problem, and I have replaced those (except for about 4 inches coming directly out of the motor.  When I connect the motor wire to its adapter (the one with the blue and yellow wires coming from the controller), it doesn't run.  I also do not think i am getting the expected voltage once they are connected and testing with the multimeter on the red and black wires.  If i connect the multimeter to the controller side of that connection (the blue and yellow wires), i get voltage.  I am new to using multimeters but I saw what i expect from reading up on this.  The battery packs are new and I am getting 24v with load / throttle pressed.  4.33v from the throttle (when testing against the black and red wires), .85 when connected to the black and white wire on the throttle side of the connector.  After engaging the throttle the voltage goes up.  I am not sure about the safety switch because i am having a hard time interpreting the multimeter.  When set on continuity setting, I am getting inconsistent results.  If I just disconnect the safety switch connector, does that just leave it in the open position and therefore rule that part out?  Also, I don't hear a consistent click from the controller although i did something (cant remember what) where i was able to get it to click.  I seemed to have to close and open the safety switch for this to happen.  Cant remember for sure.  Thanks for any help or suggestions


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Since the motor is not running when the throttle is pressed there is hardly any load on the battery pack so the load test results are not going to be accurate.

That being said, a 24 Volt load test reading under only the load of the controller is a very low reading for the battery pack. I would expect the load test reading to be at around 27 to 28 Volts under the load of only the controller without the motor running.

It might be possible that the controller is shutting the motor down at 24 Volts instead of 22.5 Volts due to variable tolerances of the components in the controller.

What I recommend to do next is plug the battery charger into the cart and then into the wall. Now with the wheel propped off of the ground so it spins freely see if the motor runs with the charger plugged into the cart and wall at the same time.

If the motor does not spin during this test them leave the charger plugged in for an hour or two to top off the battery pack and try the same test again with the charger plugged into the scooter and wall at the same time.

If the motor can be made to spin with the charger plugged in, then that points towards a faulty battery pack.

Please let us know how it goes.

thanks. Can you also comment on the safety switch.  i think it may be problematic because i was playing with it and may have damaged it.   How can I bypass it?   If it is just disconnected is that good enough?  i will get back to you with the results.  You guys rock


I do not know too much about the safety switch because it was only used on early versions of the Crazy Cart.

You could try disconnecting it and see if that helps, and then bridging its wires together and see if that helps. Since the switch only has two wires, having the wires open and closed are the only options there are. So if the safety switch is the problem then testing the cart with the safety switch wires in both the open and closed states can be used as a test to determine if the problem is with the safety switch.

Please let us know how it goes.

thanks.  Tried the safety switch in multiple positions and no progress.  Also, the cart is not working with the batteries fully charged and the wall charger plugged in and wheel elevated.   Let me know what you think next steps are


Since the battery pack is new and tested good, the cart has been tested with charger plugged into it and the wall, the throttle has been tested and passed the test, and the motor has been tested and is good, the safety switch has been overridden and its wires tested in both open and closed positions, and the power switch and fuse have to be good otherwise the throttle test would not have shown and Voltage, that leaves only the controller to point towards as being the faulty part.
thanks.  will purchase a controller and let you know how it goes.


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