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I recently picked up a used Currie E Zip 1000.  It is 36 volt with the Direct Drive Motor.  The seller advised the Batteries were a year old but still held full charge.  I checked them with Multi Meter and each Batt measured 12.5 volts.  I Checked the Master connection and it measured 39.1 volts.  Turning on the power switch and operating at full throttle resulted in very slow to moderate RPM of the rear wheel.  I suspected a bad Hall-sensor in the throttle and tried running the motor directly from the Battery Pak.  The results were essentially the same Moderate RPM without the lag in spooling.  

I took the entire assembly apart and cleaned and lubricated all parts looking for mechanical parasitic drag form a bad bearing, or dragging disc brake pad.  I have not re-assembled because I decided to install a new tire before re-installing in the frame.    In the meantime- I am looking for suggestions-  possibly buying three new 12 V 12 AHM batteries.    Does anyone recommend a particular brand?   They are all made in China using the same materials, etc.  Why are some being sold for 24 bucks and other brands 35?  Typically,  the more expensive ones boast a 1 yr guarantee but after paying the extra ten bucks for each battery-  you could easily buy a 4th or 5th battery for the same amount.   There are so many factors that impact SLA battery life to begin with.  How does one differentiate a good  battery from a "so-so" battery.    The batts currently in the scoot are label Mighty Max.   I have seen them advertised for 20 bucks each. 

Following up on my battery load condition.  I have ordered a new set of SLA Batts for the E Zip.  According to your web page battery calcuator  running a 1000 watt motor on flat ground using a 36 volt battery pak with 10 amphr. rated batts,  I can expect to operate the scoot for 25 minutes.  

I was hoping to increase the performance by over-volting the 1000 watt motor by running it on 48 volts.  There is a YouTube video that depicts someone doing this with the Schwinn Stealth 1000. He claims to have used the OEM controller and throttle (?)    I would like to do the same but I do not want to burn up the 36 volt controller especially since they are 59.00 to replace.  I have also read that most of the later model Currie Controllers lock out voltages above the rated specs and will not function.  I have seen Universal 24, 36, 48 , 60 volt controllers advertised along with 3 pin hall-effect throttles.  Would this be a more advisable approach ?   I am only hoping to achieve a modest increase in speed to 20-22 MPH.   The Currie E zip has an advertised top speed of 17 -19 Mph. 

In my experience,   I also had a Schwinn Missile FS that ran on 24 volts -400 watts and it seemed to have much better performance even with a 200 Lb rider.  

I still have yet to check the performance of the scooter using a fresh 36 volt battery pak.  The specifications for the oddball 36 volt 6 pin controller do not indicate any over-voltage protection that is indicated in their other controllers ( Post 2010 )    That said,  I do not want to burn out a 60 dollar controller and a 150 dollar   1000 watt XD motor in the name of science.   Re- Gearing is not an option as the scooter is running the Currie Direct drive motor that has the motor attached to a jackshaft housing.  On the other hand-  I have read about the issues of overvolting a chain drive scooter and their tendency to either dislodge the chain, or break it  when the throttle is applied after coasting.   It seems to me that this is the reason for the popularity of the MY 1020 electric motors.  These seem to offer much more flexibility at a lower cost than the XD motors.  The MY1020 motors are rated at 3000 RPM.  The Motor housings have  better ventilation to dissipate heat and can even be fitted with small dc fans for enhanced cooling.  The best attribute is that they are also brushless and produce more Nm of force for a given wattage over brush motors.

i have one that s making a grinding sound i havv';t been able to find replacemtezip 1000 rear end replacent

I took my housing completely apart looking for a possible source of parasitic Drag,  a bent shaft, a bad bearing or chipped teeth on the gears.  These rear drive units are supposed to be capable of generating almost 70 Newton Meters of force and since the rear wheel assembly is gear driven they have lots of low end torque.   

If you have one that is making "grinding" noises, I would check the two Outboard bearing hubs first as they carry most of the load and torsional force.  From there, I would also check to see if your rotor is hanging up on the disc brake.  Beyond that,  you may have a bad internal bearing in the jackshaft housing, or a bad spur gear on the motor.   I have seen the entire assembly including new rear tire and tube for $289.00 but they claim it has also been discontinued By Currie.

thanks for the quick  i will response ill check that out