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Control Module Replacement for old E200 scooter.
ESP Support
said
over 6 years ago
Throttles are very sensitive to miswiring so if you tried all different combinations of wiring it to the controller then unfortunately it has most likely been burned out. All it take is a millisecond of reverse polarity to the throttle to burn it out.
A Razor E200 version 13+ controller will not work on a Razor E200 version 3 scooter because the wiring is completely different between version 3 and 13.
The CT-201C6 controller has been discontinued by the manufacturer so we had a replacement controller made by a different factory. Our CT-201C6 controller (Item # SPD-CT201C6) is a direct plug-and-play replacement. We also have thumb throttles for E200 version 3 scooters (Item # THR-66).
A Razor E200 version 13+ controller will not work on a Razor E200 version 3 scooter because the wiring is completely different between version 3 and 13.
The CT-201C6 controller has been discontinued by the manufacturer so we had a replacement controller made by a different factory. Our CT-201C6 controller (Item # SPD-CT201C6) is a direct plug-and-play replacement. We also have thumb throttles for E200 version 3 scooters (Item # THR-66).
Our Razor E200 version 3 throttle and controller are available on our E200 parts page: https://electricscooterparts.com/razore200.html
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thank you for the information! Are there any instructions using a voltmeter to verify if my current controller in fact fried or still good to determine if just need to buy a different throttle or the controller as well? Thanks again.
ESP Support
said
over 6 years ago
Electric scooter controllers are too complex to test with a multimeter. Testing the other parts that are connected to the controller
and using the process of elimination is the best method to determine if
the controller is working or not. If all of the parts
that are connected to the controller test good then the
controller has to be the problem.
The first step we would take is to unplug the brake lever from the controller and see if the scooter runs then. If the scooter runs when the brake lever is unplugged from the controller then the brake lever is faulty and needs to be replaced. Keep the brake lever unplugged from the controller for the remainder of the test procedures.
The next thing we would test is the battery pack wiring harness, power switch, and fuse. This test can be performed by testing the Voltage at the battery pack, and then unplugging the controller from the battery pack wiring harness, flipping the power switch on, and testing the voltage of the thick red and black wires on the unplugged battery pack wiring harness connector. The Voltage at the end of the battery pack wiring harness should be the same as it is at the battery pack. If the battery pack has Voltage and the connector at the end of the battery pack wiring harness does not have Voltage, then the wiring harness, power switch, or circuit breaker is faulty and they will need to be individually tested for continuity to determine which of these parts has failed.
If those parts test good then the next step we would take is to test the battery chargers output Voltage. It should be around 28 to 29 Volts. If it does not have any output Voltage or has significantly less Voltage than it should then it is faulty.
Next we would recharge the battery pack for six to eight hours, let the battery pack sit for an hour, and then test the battery pack's Voltage. For the Razor E200 scooter a fully charged battery pack should be at around 27.6 Volts. If the battery pack has less than 24 Volts after being fully charged with a good charger then it is old or worn out and needs to be replaced.
If the battery pack has 24 Volts or more after this test then it still may be old or worn out and a battery pack load test is the next diagnostic step to take.
Since the scooter is not running, a standard on vehicle load test will not be possible. However the battery pack can still be load tested on the vehicle by unplugging the motor and battery pack from the controller and wiring the scooter's motor directly to the battery pack. During this test the motor should of course run, and the Voltage of the battery pack should not drop under 24 Volts while the rear brake is momentarily applied bringing the rear wheel to a stop or a near stop. If the battery pack has less than 24 Volts during this test then it is old or worn out and needs to be replaced. If the battery pack has more than 5 Volts in it during this test then the motor should run, and if the motor does not run then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If you have gotten this far and the wiring harness, power switch, circuit breaker, battery charger, battery pack, and motor all test good then testing the throttle is the final step. We have a throttle testing guide on this page: https://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttletestingguide.html
If all of these parts test good then the controller is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
The first step we would take is to unplug the brake lever from the controller and see if the scooter runs then. If the scooter runs when the brake lever is unplugged from the controller then the brake lever is faulty and needs to be replaced. Keep the brake lever unplugged from the controller for the remainder of the test procedures.
The next thing we would test is the battery pack wiring harness, power switch, and fuse. This test can be performed by testing the Voltage at the battery pack, and then unplugging the controller from the battery pack wiring harness, flipping the power switch on, and testing the voltage of the thick red and black wires on the unplugged battery pack wiring harness connector. The Voltage at the end of the battery pack wiring harness should be the same as it is at the battery pack. If the battery pack has Voltage and the connector at the end of the battery pack wiring harness does not have Voltage, then the wiring harness, power switch, or circuit breaker is faulty and they will need to be individually tested for continuity to determine which of these parts has failed.
If those parts test good then the next step we would take is to test the battery chargers output Voltage. It should be around 28 to 29 Volts. If it does not have any output Voltage or has significantly less Voltage than it should then it is faulty.
Next we would recharge the battery pack for six to eight hours, let the battery pack sit for an hour, and then test the battery pack's Voltage. For the Razor E200 scooter a fully charged battery pack should be at around 27.6 Volts. If the battery pack has less than 24 Volts after being fully charged with a good charger then it is old or worn out and needs to be replaced.
If the battery pack has 24 Volts or more after this test then it still may be old or worn out and a battery pack load test is the next diagnostic step to take.
Since the scooter is not running, a standard on vehicle load test will not be possible. However the battery pack can still be load tested on the vehicle by unplugging the motor and battery pack from the controller and wiring the scooter's motor directly to the battery pack. During this test the motor should of course run, and the Voltage of the battery pack should not drop under 24 Volts while the rear brake is momentarily applied bringing the rear wheel to a stop or a near stop. If the battery pack has less than 24 Volts during this test then it is old or worn out and needs to be replaced. If the battery pack has more than 5 Volts in it during this test then the motor should run, and if the motor does not run then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If you have gotten this far and the wiring harness, power switch, circuit breaker, battery charger, battery pack, and motor all test good then testing the throttle is the final step. We have a throttle testing guide on this page: https://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttletestingguide.html
If all of these parts test good then the controller is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thank you for the detailed instructions!
andy
I have an old e200 (version 3) scooter. Kids broke the thumb throttle on it so I ordered one that looked the same. When it arrived,two of the colors were different. I tried all different combination but nothing worked. I assume I must of shorted out my control module somehow or the throttle does not work with that control unit. I can't find throttles what have my original color combination.
I took the module out and the part is CT-201C6. Googled and apparently this part is no longer made. I found a different replacement for that part but that is also discontinued.
Can I just buy a version 13+ control unit to get the scooter to work again?
Thanks in advance!