Ah, that's an interesting point. Yes, the wheels were spinning freely when I connected directly so that might explain the lack of voltage drop. That said, the wheels were also spinning freely when I applied throttle through the controller and all I hear is the click. Wouldn't the lack of resistance mean that too should have worked?
This is very helpful. I'll give this a shot and report back.
Thanks, I'll test that. However, since I can clearly hear the clicking in the controller when applying the throttle, doesn't that indicate the throttle switch works? Or is it possible the switch is immediately switching off? I suppose I could also jumper the two orange wires to force full throttle?
I'm so confused! I did a continuity test on both of the switch wires and they seem to react properly to the throttle so at this point I assumed it was the battery. I tried with known working batteries both testing out at 13.2 volts and it's the exact same problem. Can I assume my controller is bad now?
Since the throttle and battery pack have already been tested and are good we will leave them off of the list.
After these tests have been performed and if none of the tests point toward a faulty part that is connected to the controller then we would presume that the controller is not working.
Hello, I recently picked up a used E300 for pretty cheap and I'm trying to diagnose what's wrong. Here's where I'm at:
* Controller "clicks" when applying throttle. It sounds like it's clicking on, then off right away.
* I assumed the battery was bad, but individually they both test out at about 12.6 volts and when I attach them directly to the motor the voltage doesn't drop below 12.
* Break switch tests fine
* bypassed fuse, switch etc.
My gut tells me it's probably just bad batteries, but I can't get over the fact that the volts don't really drop when under load. Which should I replace first, the batteries or controller? Any other ideas?