ElectricScooterParts.com Support Center

When the throttle is turned to the full throttle position does the green "full" light turn off or flicker?

Thanks for attaching the video.

Since the battery indicator light stays green that indicates that the battery pack is not dropping Voltage, however, since the motor is not running there is no load on the battery pack, so it does not prove that the battery pack is good or bad. It does excuse the battery pack from being tested at this point in time though since its Voltage level is not presently dropping.

There are two ways of going about diagnosing the problem. The parts could be tested with a multimeter to help determine which one has failed, or new parts could be purchased and installed until the problem is fixed. The testing method is usually the most economical because it pinpoints the problem which prevents good parts from being unnecessarily replaced.

Since the battery indicator light on the throttle lights up that proves that the wiring harness, power switch, and fuse are working so these parts do not need to be tested.

If we were to use the throwing parts at the problem repair method then we would replace the speed controller first because it is the most likely part to have failed.

If we were to use the parts testing repair method then we would start by testing throttle using our Razor 6-Wire Variable Speed Throttle Testing Guide.
 

This guide will help to prove if the throttle works or not and if the controller is outputting power to the throttle. If the throttle has been proven to work during this test then the controller is most likely the problem. However, before replacing the controller we would test the motor by wiring it directly to the battery pack or to a 12 Volt automotive battery charger. If the motor runs during this test then we would replace the controller, and if the motor does not run during this test then we would replace the motor.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

To test the motor, securely prop the rear wheel so it is off of the ground and can spin freely. Then unplug the motor's wire connector from the controller and use any method that you feel like to apply DC Voltage to the motor wires. The polarity of the DC Voltage should be positive to the motor's red wire and negative to the motor's black wire. However, no harm would be done if the motor wires were connected in reverse polarity.

The motor's wire connector has 1/4" wide spades, so two 1/4" female spade connectors with wires attached to them could be used to energize the motor.

A DC power source to test the motor could be:

• A 12 Volt automotive battery charger, 2 Amp or higher rated (our preferred method).
• A 12 Volt battery (could be a scooter battery or automobile battery. (another good method).
  
• The scooter's 36 Volt battery pack (this will work however it is our least preferred method because it will cause the motor to run at full speed and may cause a big spark when touching the final wire to the battery pack).
  

The motor only needs to be tested for a second to determine if it works.

On the scooter's original battery pack, the wires are soldered onto the battery terminals, with heat shrink tubing over the wire insulation and solder, and hot glue melted over the exposed portion of the battery terminal and part of the heat shrink tubing.

This soldered-on wire system can be replaced with spade connectors, however, that would be a downgrade as the spade connectors would most likely loosen over time and begin to make poor contact with the batteries.

Since you have soldering equipment, desoldering (or cutting off) the wires from the old batteries and soldering them onto the new batteries would be the best method to install the new batteries. The hot glue can be pulled off of the old batteries with pliers or a standard screwdriver (warm the glue up a little if it won't come off) and the old heat shrink tubing can be cut off with a box knife to expose the wire and solder underneath them.

If you do not have heat shrink tubing and hot glue then electric tape could be wrapped all the way around the battery several times to insulate the exposed battery terminals after soldering the wires onto the new batteries.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

The motor should be quiet however the chain will make a good amount of noise. I watched the video and could not tell where the noise was coming from. The noise kind of sounded like the motor however it kind of sounded like the chain also.

Unless you are 100% certain that the noise is coming from the motor then I would take the chain off and run the motor on its own to see if the noise is coming from the motor or the chain.

Thanks for the further explanation, now I understand the video a lot better. The chain is the loudest part on an electric scooter so it can make quite a bit of noise. It is difficult to tell how exactly loud something is in a video because I can turn my speakers up or down, however, it sounds like the noise in the video could be normal if the chain is dry and has not been oiled in a while.

The chain could be removed and then the wheel spun by hand to determine if the noise is coming from a wheel bearing. Also with the chain removed the rear wheel sprocket could be spun counterclockwise to see how much noise it makes when freewheeling, and then spun clockwise to see if the freewheel engages and spins the wheel.

If the motor's shaft did not freely spin when the motor was wired directly to a battery then the motor is faulty. Often times when a motor makes a "clonk" or "clunk" sound it has a broken piece of magnet inside of it that is making contact with the rotor and causing it to seize up or not be able to move freely. If a faulty motor is attempted to be used after it fails then it will often time demand too much power from the controller and take it out along with it.

If the controller is still good then it will provide power to the motor and the motor will make the same "clonk" sound that it made when connected to a battery, which it sounds like is not the case.