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Electric Horseless Carriage Rework

 I recently purchased an electric horseless carriage based on the design in the following link -   I knew it would need some rework, but now I am thinking I may need to replace the motors and controller.

The cart uses 2 of your 24v (MOT-24450G) motors and a Curtis PMC 24-36v, 275 amp controller.  On level hard ground it scoots along very well at about 10 mph pulling less than 20 amps but when it has to climb a hill, especially on grass, it jumps to 100 amps and blows an 80 amp fuse between the batteries

Using your gear ratio calculator, the gear ratio is 16.78 with a top speed of 12.45 mph.  The empty cart weighs 460 pounds.  On jack stands, the wheels spin freely with 1 finger.

I am wondering if I need to go to 2 - 36v 1000 watt motors and controller(s) or can a cart this big and heavy be powered electrically with your products?

Any updates on the kit and my previous questions?


Three 12V 75Ah batteries will definitely work with the kit. The combined power of the two 1000 Watt motors will be around 2.5 horsepower if their shafts are both turning in the clockwise direction.

I notice in the photo of the carriage that the motors are installed in opposite positions so that one motor runs counterclockwise and the other motor runs clockwise. These type of motors have forward timing which makes them have more power and speed when they run clockwise than when they run counterclockwise. To get the full power out of the two motors they will need to be installed so that both of them run clockwise when the carriage is being driven forward.

I borrowed the photo of the carriage's motors from the link you posted (there was no copyright) and modified it to show how the motors need to be installed so both motor shafts spin clockwise for maximum power. Here is the original photo and the modified one.


I will go ahead and start making the kit now and when it is finished I will post a link to it.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

I just got the kit finished. It is item number KIT-362000-20. Here is the link to it:

The kit's 36 Volt 8 Amp battery charger will recharge the 36 Volt 75Ah battery pack in around 11 hours if it is 100% deeply discharged, and in less time depending on the amount that it is discharged. This battery charger automatically stop charging the batteries after they are fully recharged so you do not have to worry about turning it off at a certain time.

Please have a look at the kit when you get a chance and let me know if I missed anything or if there are any changes that you would like made to the kit.
All parts have arrived for the kit.  When wiring up the parts, I noticed that there are 2 wires that go to the positive side of the batteries.  1 is from relay post 1 and the other is from one side of the circuit breaker.  Is this correct that both wires should go to the positive terminal?


Only one wire should go to each battery post. I do not have a photo of the kit so I can not advise on battery pack wiring until I can see the parts. Do you have any way to take and attach a photo of the kit so I may have a look at them?

 I may have figured out the extra wire but want your verification.

Photo1 is the whole kit without batteries and motors

Photo 2 is a close up of the wires in question

Photo 3 is what I think is the extra wire

I think I may have created the problem when I had to replace the terminal ends to the batteries as the terminal ends were too small for the battery post and some of the wires were too short.  I don't think the red wire in picture 2 & 3 connected to Post 2 that I labeled for battery + is needed and should be removed.

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The red middle wire in photo 2 needs to be removed from the power contactor. This wire was intended to be used as a battery pack jumper wire which only connects to the batteries and not to the power contactor.


Once that wire is removed from the power contactor then the kit is ready to use.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks!  Great tech support as usual.


I installed your kit KIT-362000-20 and it works great, except, my cart goes too fast and has a hard time pulling hills.  So, I am wanting to change the final drive sprocket from 40 teeth to your 55 tooth sprocket SPR-2555.  What I need to know is what is the spacing on the bolt holes?  My current wheel hub bolt spacing is 2" between bolts and 2 49/64" across.  Will your sprocket fit?

Here is a photo of our SPR-2555 55 tooth sprocket for #25 chain with center hole and bolt hole spacings marked on it.

The bolts holes spacings of SPR-2555 look like they are a little smaller than the wheel hub bolt spacing measurements. So long as the center hole is not too small then new bolt holes with the correct distance between them could be drilled next to the existing ones on the SPR-2555 sprocket to make it work. The existing wheel sprocket could be placed and centered on the SPR-2555 sprocket and then its bolt holes marked with a pen or scribe to ensure that the new bolt holes are properly placed on the new sprocket.

Please let us know if you have any question.

Four items:
1) Thanks for the dimensions on the sprocket. I ordered 2, one of each rear wheel, and ordered chain, links, lube and chain breaker, etc.
2) I have a 100 amp panel meter, GME PM89, with a matched shunt installed between the electronics I purchased form you and the negative battery terminal (see photo of shunt placement - left edge of the mounting board). When riding the cart, even climbing a slight hill, the meter will peg at 100 amps but the 80 amp breaker never blows. I have replaced the meter and shunt and increased the wire size from the shunt to the meter. Any ideas of what's wrong?
3) Just for looks, I have been thinking of replacing the toggle switches from your kit, SWT-96 & SWT-97 with rotary switches but it gets confusing with the variety available on the web. Do you have a recommendation or source for these switches?

You are welcome and thank you for your order. 

Most circuit breakers have a delayed reaction and will not trip until their rated current level has been exceeded for a short amount of time. This amount of time can be anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the circuit breaker design. A 100 Amp draw is a lot of power for a slight uphill climb so you may want to check the mV rating on both the shunt and meter to see if they are the same, as a mismatch between mV ratings between these two parts would cause incorrect readings. 

I do not have much experience with purchasing rotary switches so I do not have any recommendations to make off the bat. I do know that the rotary switches would need to have the same functions as the original switches and be wired the same in order for the system to work. The toggle switches used in the kit are Off-On DPST and On-Off-On SPDT.

The installation of the new circuit breaker looks good. That reminds me that I need to get mounting hardware for our circuit breakers to make them easier to mount.

Hello, Wilson!
I am glad that you finished with success reconstruction of your electric-powered horseless-carriage-replica.
I was following the construction of original vehicle from the start, being interested in a similar vehicle. Probably that hybrid power shouldn't be allowed here in Europe for road-legal use as electric-vehicle, so your combination of components, parts and material bought from Electric Scooters Parts Company looks to me as an excellent solution.
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I am interested in performances of your new variant of vehicle: total weight, weight with driver and passenger, maximum and cruising speed, hill-climbing possibilities and average range...

I am not sure if you would read this, but if you get some notice from this Forum, I would be glad if you find time to write about your experiences and impressions!

Good luck, happy and jolly rides!

Bern, Swiss, Europe


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