I will go ahead and start making the kit now and when it is finished I will post a link to it.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
I may have figured out the extra wire but want your verification.
Photo1 is the whole kit without batteries and motors
Photo 2 is a close up of the wires in question
Photo 3 is what I think is the extra wire
I think I may have created the problem when I had to replace the terminal ends to the batteries as the terminal ends were too small for the battery post and some of the wires were too short. I don't think the red wire in picture 2 & 3 connected to Post 2 that I labeled for battery + is needed and should be removed.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Here is a photo of our SPR-2555 55 tooth sprocket for #25 chain with center hole and bolt hole spacings marked on it.
The bolts holes spacings of SPR-2555 look like they are a little smaller than the wheel hub bolt spacing measurements. So long as the center hole is not too small then new bolt holes with the correct distance between them could be drilled next to the existing ones on the SPR-2555 sprocket to make it work. The existing wheel sprocket could be placed and centered on the SPR-2555 sprocket and then its bolt holes marked with a pen or scribe to ensure that the new bolt holes are properly placed on the new sprocket.
Please let us know if you have any question.
You are welcome and thank you for your order.
Most circuit breakers have a delayed reaction and will not trip until their rated current level has been exceeded for a short amount of time. This amount of time can be anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes depending on the circuit breaker design. A 100 Amp draw is a lot of power for a slight uphill climb so you may want to check the mV rating on both the shunt and meter to see if they are the same, as a mismatch between mV ratings between these two parts would cause incorrect readings.
I do not have much experience with purchasing rotary switches so I do not have any recommendations to make off the bat. I do know that the rotary switches would need to have the same functions as the original switches and be wired the same in order for the system to work. The toggle switches used in the kit are Off-On DPST and On-Off-On SPDT.
The installation of the new circuit breaker looks good. That reminds me that I need to get mounting hardware for our circuit breakers to make them easier to mount.
Wilson Fausel
I recently purchased an electric horseless carriage based on the design in the following link - http://www.szott.com/carriage/carriage.html. I knew it would need some rework, but now I am thinking I may need to replace the motors and controller.
The cart uses 2 of your 24v (MOT-24450G) motors and a Curtis PMC 24-36v, 275 amp controller. On level hard ground it scoots along very well at about 10 mph pulling less than 20 amps but when it has to climb a hill, especially on grass, it jumps to 100 amps and blows an 80 amp fuse between the batteries
Using your gear ratio calculator, the gear ratio is 16.78 with a top speed of 12.45 mph. The empty cart weighs 460 pounds. On jack stands, the wheels spin freely with 1 finger.
I am wondering if I need to go to 2 - 36v 1000 watt motors and controller(s) or can a cart this big and heavy be powered electrically with your products?