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Razor Crazy Cart not working

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what part I need to replace my sons crazy cart. It only runs on occasion depending on how he turns the wheel with his foot on the gas pedal. I've checked all of the words and nothing is loose or has come undone. Do I need a new controller, engine or foot pedal? Help please!!!!
2 people have this question
Hi im conor and i have the same problem as terri my crazy cart goes when thewheel is in certain places so im going to try and fix it soon and i will update you on whether it works or not thx for the troubleshooting help
Hi Conor, when the motor cuts in and out as the wheel is being turned that is usually caused by a broken motor wire. Please let us know how the repair goes.
Hello fellow fathers/mothers or handy people. I have read your entire post on the razor. Applied the 12V Batt technique, the pedal technique and the checking of possible split wire. I took a Voltmeter to my Batt and they are putting out 26V. My issue is somewhat different. My son's cart will run 100% for a total of 60+ seconds and then die out. Intimitantly it will start over and shut off. Ideas? Thank you in advance.
I'm in between the module or motor, bc I exhausted the other possibilities on this thread. Being that is goes 100% and slowly dies out I'm narrowing it to that. Advice is welcome
Hi Mike, from what you described that type of problem is usually caused by a worn out or faulty battery pack. The Voltage of a worn out or faulty battery pack can bounce back to normal when it is not being used, but then shortly after it is in use it can drop down below a level that the controller will operate at. Most 24 Volt controllers will turn off when the battery pack drops under 23 Volts.

I recommend testing the battery pack when it is under load and see if its Voltage drops then. If you can place the multimeter leads into the charger port and hold them there with tape, and then watch the Voltage as the cart is being driven that will indicate whether the battery pack is dropping too much Voltage under load and causing the problem. If the battery pack drops under 24 Volts when it is under load then it needs to be replaced.

The other components of the electrical system such as the controller and motor usually either work or do not work, and if they work their performance will not decrease while they are being used.

Please let me know how it goes.

ESP, Thank very much for the support. I will do this ASAP and post the results. Mike
ESP, Load test failed. Went from 27 and kept dropping down to 20 ish. Thanks
Guys, I changed the motor on Krazy cart, now it only goes backwards? Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

This is a very easy to fix. All you need to do is reverse the positions of the wires between the motor and controller.


To do this unplug the motor from the controller. Then take a very small screwdriver and one at a time push the locking tab of the terminal pin flat with the pin and gently pull the pins out of the white plastic connector. Then restore the original positions of the terminal locking tabs using the same screwdriver and push the terminal pins back into the plastic connectors in the opposite positions that they were in when they were pulled out. I recommend marking the position of either the red or black wire with a permanent marker or tape so their original positions are not forgotten after the terminals are removed from the connector.

This worked perfectly guys! Thx so much!

Hello there,


I have a crazy cart and it was working fine until recently.  Now the Batt lights are illuminated and when I press the pedal there is a quick jolt and then nothing.  I tried moving the wires but they are protected by a spring like sheath.  Any suggestions?


Thanks

If the motor wires are broken then the motor will usually turn on and off when the steering wheel is being turned. The newer Crazy Cart models with wire springs wrapped over the motor wires usually do not have this problem though.


Typically when there is consistently a quick jolt of power and then no power at all after the throttle pedal is pressed, the battery pack is dropping too many Volts under load which is causing the speed controller to turn off. The first thing I would do is test the Voltage of the battery pack with a multimeter before the pedal is pressed and keep watching the Voltage when the pedal is pressed and see if the Voltage drops. If the battery pack Voltage drops under 23 Volts when the pedal is pressed then the battery pack is the source of the problem and needs to be replaced.

Hi! I have the same issue. Cart only works when the wheel is turned any amount to the left, from just slightly to all the way in reverse. I have a newer model with the spring around the motor wire. Sounds like that would be the issue from reading this thread. I don't see that wire available on the site. Is it something I can purchase? Or what do you recommend to get through that spring? Thank you!

Hi Mike, Razor added the spring around the motor wires on later model Crazy Carts to try to solve the broken wire problem. However it looks like the problem is still occurring. From what you described it sounds exactly like the broken motor wire problem that many people have experienced with their older model Crazy Carts.


The motor wire is built into the motor and is not replaceable as a separate part, however since it is just a simple electrical wire it can be repaired by splicing it back together, or by replacing a section of the wire by cutting and splicing new wires onto the old wires. If the wire is broken under the spring that presents a new repair obstacle though. The only way I can imagine removing the spring would be to cut the wires beyond the end of the spring and then pulling the spring off of the wires. Then the spring could be pushed back over the new wires before they are spliced onto the old wires to complete the repair.


Since the Crazy Cart's steering makes the motor wires frequently and severely bend that puts a lot of stress on the copper strands inside of the wires and they will sometimes fail from breaking in half due to metal fatigue. When replacing a section of the motor wires it would be best to use a wire that has a high copper strand count so it is very flexible. Most 14 gauge automotive primary wire has 19 strands of 27 gauge wire so they can not handle repeated bending very well. A better choice for a wire that will bend a lot is automotive speaker wire which typically has 41 strands of 30 gauge wire in a 14 gauge wire. Speaker wire is made with smaller copper strands than primary wire so it can easily bend around corners which makes it a good choice for applications requiring repeated bending. Not all speaker wire has such a high strand count though so if you do wind up purchasing speaker wire for the repair then I recommend making sure that it has a high strand count.


Please let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks guys!  I appreciate it.  I'm going to pick up some of the high strand count speaker wire and see if that fixes it.  I'll update once I get it done, thank you again!

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