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Razor Crazy Cart not working

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what part I need to replace my sons crazy cart. It only runs on occasion depending on how he turns the wheel with his foot on the gas pedal. I've checked all of the words and nothing is loose or has come undone. Do I need a new controller, engine or foot pedal? Help please!!!!

2 people have this question

I've got a newer model the same at Mike C.  Same exact thing.  Too bad Razor doesn't do something to remedy this if everyone has the same problem.  So based on above I should cut both wires, below the spring coil and through the protective rubber covering both wires?  Cut it before the motor and then again at the top?  Then use speaker wire to replace it?  Does it matter the gauge of the wire?  Is Monster wire better?  Is it worth trying to tread it back through the spring coil as it doesn't seem to fix the problem.  May be easier to just run the wire but buy enough to keep replacing it when it happens again.

Forgot to post an update, but I did exactly what he said to do and it worked perfectly! I bought a 50 foot spool of speaker wire for $12.66 and used about a foot of it. Just cut the wire and leave enough length to splice in the new wire on both ends. I tossed the spring, didn't run the new wire through it but left a little more slack than the original wire had when replacing it. It's been running perfect for a couple weeks now. Company called Monoprice sells cheap wire and cables. They happen to be near me so I order online then pick it up. Here's a link to the wire I used:
Hi Mike, great to hear that you got it repaired. Please let us know how it holds up using the speaker wire.

Hi Greg, Razor tried to solve the problem by installing that long spring over the wires, however since the wire is still breaking I am sure they will get a lot of warranty issues and figure something better out. They are trying to solve this problem.

Usually only one of the wires is broken and needs to be replaced, however if one of the wires is broken then the second wire is probably not too far behind it and will break soon also, so replacing both wires would be best.

You should be able to cut the wire in one place, and then pull the spring off the wires. I think that cutting the wires near the bottom of the spring might be the best place because it flexes less at that spot than it does at the top of the spring.

Any wire with a high copper strand count would work best as a replacement wire. Car audio power wire and speaker wire is the most common high strand count wire that is available. Car audio power wire is sold in individual unattached wires, while speaker wire is usually sold in paired wires that are attached to each other and can be separated by hand. Both power wire and speaker wire should both work fine for this application however I personally prefer using power wire because it is available in red and black colors which match the existing wire colors. One thing to consider is that unlike car primary wire, audio power wire does not have the same regulations, so the size of their wires inside of the insulation can vary widely between manufacturers. Here is an example taken from NVX wire of four different 8 gauge car audio power wires made by different manufacturers.

You can see that the size of copper wires inside of the insulation is not the same between each different brand. The only way to know that you are actually getting the gauge of wire that you need is to buy a trusted brand name wire instead of a cheap knock off brand. Monster wire is a trusted brand name and a good choice to use.

As far as which gauge wire to use the original wire is 14 gauge so 14 gauge would work as a replacement. A larger wire such as 12 gauge could also be used and the extra thickness should help it to hold up over time.


I am not sure if running the wire back through the spring is a good idea or not. The spring does not appear to help that much. Its your call whether to use the spring again or not. There is a chance using high strand count wire that the wires will be thicker than the original wires so they will not fit inside of the spring.

I like your idea of replacing the wire without using the spring so it is easier to replace in the future. That gave me an idea to use connectors at each end of the repair so the section of wire that is replaced is like an extension cord with plugs at both ends. Then an extra "extension cord" can be made for a fast and easy repair whenever needed. The type of connectors I am thinking of are the same type that the motor wire already has on its end that looks like this. Item # CNX-50 Connector

I like that idea plus seems easier than trying to get a good connection and soldering the wires back together every time.  I'll try this and let you know what I come up with.

My son's crazy cart is not working. When the pedal is pressed, I can hear clicking, but nothing, it doesn't go. His dad thinks the problem is in the silver box. Please help
Since the controller (silver box) is clicking when the foot throttle is pressed that indicates that the wires and connectors between the battery pack and controller, the fuse, and the power switch are good. The problem could be caused by a faulty controller, worn out battery pack, faulty throttle, or a broken motor wire. The first thing I would do is turn the Crazy Cart's power switch on and give it some throttle, then slowly turn the steering wheel from full left to full right and see if the motor starts to run on at any point while the steering wheel is being turned. If it does then the cart has a broken motor wire. The motor could also not run during this test and still have a broken wire however this is a good starting point for the diagnosis.

If the batteries are over one year old, or if they have sat for more than a couple of months without being recharged, then there is a good chance that they are causing the problem and need to be replaced. The battery pack's Voltage can be tested when the power switch is off, and again when the power switch is on and the throttle is fully pressed, to see if it is dropping too much Voltage under load. A good Crazy Cart battery pack should have around 27 Volts when fully charged, and should not drop under 24 Volts when under load. A Crazy Cart battery pack that is in very good condition will drop less than 1 Volt when under load. Here is a link to our battery pack load testing guide:

If the motor wires and batteries are both good then the problem would have to be with the controller or throttle. These two parts could both be replaced at the same time to avoid testing, or they could be tested to determine which one is not working using the throttle testing guide shown on this page:

Please let us know if you have any questions.
My crazy cart would click when pressing the pedal but the motor and wheel would not spin. I took ESP Supports above advice and tore it apart. The motor wire is surrounded by insulation wrap and a wire spring guard. I pulled the spring guard apart so that I could visibly see the motor wire and found a bulge in the wire. I cut it and cut back the wires and tied them together and tested the pedal and BAM! The motor spun! So, like they stated above, the steering wheel being turned 180 degrees can abuse the wire and in my case it was shorting out (the clicking noise I was hearing in the control board) due to the positive and negative being in contact with each other. I will run a new wire and safeguard it with another spring wire guard and be back on the road tomorrow! Thanks for the tips!
I have my grandson razor apart at this time. I found a break or breaks in the wiring that comes from the motor which is enclosed by the spring. I used a volt meter to measure resistence, found two breaks near the pinch points. Will be cutting them out and replacing the wire then adding extra insulation such as tape near these pinch points. Hopes this helps
The problem is in the wiring coming from the motor which is encased in the spring. I’m working on my grandsons now, and I’ve located two breaks in that wiring using a volt meter with pointed tips to measure resistance. I will be cutting out the bad sections and replacing then adding additional insulation such as tape to help protect the pinch points. This is not an easy job if you are not handy. Batteries need to come out, wires need to be unplugged, wire ties cut and two connector ends need to be cut off to get wires out of spring and tube insulator. But you can do take pics first
I had the same problem. When the wheel was straight no power. When the wheel was turned power. I found the wire from the motor to the control board was shorting. I cut the wire out and will patch a new one in. I don't have a picture but it's the wire the has a spring like cover.

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