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Razor Crazy Cart not working

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what part I need to replace my sons crazy cart. It only runs on occasion depending on how he turns the wheel with his foot on the gas pedal. I've checked all of the words and nothing is loose or has come undone. Do I need a new controller, engine or foot pedal? Help please!!!!

2 people have this question
If the Crazy Cart runs intermittently depending on how the wheel is turned then the controller, motor, and foot pedal throttle are most likely not the problem. Intermittent power problems are usually caused by bad connections. On the Crazy Cart the motor is attached to and moves with the steering wheel, so it would be most likely that the connector between the motor and controller could be causing the problem. I would unplug the motor connector from the controller and look inside of it for any signs of overheating or discoloration.

Of course the motor connector may not be the problem but it is the first place that I would look. If the motor connector looks good on the inside then the problem is most likely somewhere else. If that does not solve the problem please let me know and I will offer some more troubleshooting suggestions.
I also am having issues with my son's crazy cart. The batteries would not take a charge. I replaced the batteries at a local Batteries plus store. I placed everything back together and nothing works. It will not turn on, at all. The 30amp fuse is good. Is it the control module or what?
The problem could be the control module but I would test the power switch before replacing it just in case the problem is the power switch and not the controller.
I have the same problem as Terri. The cart will only go if the wheel is left or right, not straight. The motor cuts off when the wheel is straight. I checked all of the connections and they all look fine, no sign of wear. Cart is 3 month old, on third front tire and 2nd set of rear casters.
Since two people are having the exact same problem it sounds like we may have discovered a common problem with the Razor Crazy Cart here.

Because the Crazy Cart's steering wheel is able to rotate more than 180° in each direction I suspect that there may be an issue with the motor's electric wires breaking under their plastic insulation from having to flex and bend so much.

The wires may not look broken on the outside but could be broken on the inside. Turning the wheel causes the motor wires to flex which could cause the broken wire to make contact with itself and then loose contact depending on the position of the wheel.

The way I would test for this is to:
  • Raise the Crazy Cart off the ground on cinder blocks or something else that will lift if far enough so the wheel will spin freely when the motor is on.
  • Unplug the motor connector from the speed controller.
  • Make motor connector wire leads by connecting two lengths of automotive wire to two 1/4" female disconnect crimp terminals. Then push the female disconnect terminals onto the two tabs inside of the motor connector.


  • Touch and hold the bare ends of the motor wire leads to a 12 Volt battery. (The motor might start running when the wires are connected to the battery.)
  • Turn the wheel and see if the motor still cuts in and out depending on the position that the wheel is in.

If the motor still cuts in and out after connecting it directly to a battery then there is definitely a break in one of the motor wires. You could try to replace the motor wires by cutting and splicing new wire into them, or replace the old motor with a new one.

If anyone tries this test and finds that the motor wires are broken and causing the problem please reply to this topic so other people with the same problem will know what to do.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Is there an easy way to test the power switch?

So a little more diagnosing...I have power to the switch at 26v. I checked the charging port and have no voltage; however, the wall charger reports operational based on the instructions here: The batteries are putting out almost 26v. I have checked the connections and the only thing I am not getting power on is the blue and yellow leads from the control module to the motor.  This "should" be 24v from what I understand. Any other advice or recommendations?

It sounds like you are getting 26 Volts going to the speed controller power input connector so the power switch would have to be good then.

You can test the battery packs Voltage with the cart off, and then again with the power on and throttle fully engaged to see if it drop under 23 Volts. If the packs Voltage drops under 23 Volts with the power on and throttle engaged then the battery pack fails the load test and needs to be replaced.

If there is no change in Voltage levels between when the power switch is off, and when it is on and the throttle is engaged, then the controller is not drawing any power from the battery pack which indicates that there might be a problem with the controller or throttle.

It does not make any sense that there is no Voltage at the charger port but the battery charger is indicating that it charges the batteries and completes the charge. I would look into that a little more to make sure that power is getting to the charger port, because if the port has no power then the batteries will not charge. 26 Volt is a low reading for a fully charged 24 Volt battery pack. It should have around 28 Volts in it when fully charged.
I finally got around to working on the cart. I replaced the black and red wires that run from the motor to the battery and that solved the problem! Now I have a happy carter once again! Thanks for everyone's help!

After dismantling almost the entire cart and checking each thing meticulously, I narrowed the issue down to the on/off switch. I ran to Radio Shack to get a new one; however, they did not have anything remotely similar. I returned home and began diagnosing the switch. I took it apart to see if it was fuzed inside. Unfortunately it was not. However, upon taking it apart, I found a small piece of paper-like cardboard between the contacts of the switch. I put it back together (backwards the first time) and it worked like a pro. So, before buying a new switch or anything, I recommend taking everything apart to check it out.  This was very odd, but now have a happy carter! Thank for your assistance in diagnosis. 

It is great to hear that both of you got the Razor Crazy Carts working today.

I suspected that the motor wires may have been causing the problem with the cart running and not running depending on the position that the steering wheel is in. Good to hear that was the problem and you got it fixed Terri.

Power switches are a popular part in our store so it does not surprise me that the switch was causing the problem. It is interesting to hear that the issue inside of the switch was a piece of insulation paper that had come loose and wedged itself between the switch contacts. I have always just replaced switches and never thought to take one apart to see what was wrong inside of it. Gary, you will definitely get this forum's MacGyver award of the month for that!

Looks like you were right, the lines going to the motor were slightly severed at the pinch point below the steering wheel. Not enough to break the plastic, but enough to sever the thin copper wires inside.  They should have put in a rubber grommet or something, the metal spring protecting the wires is basically useless. My dumb butt  thought it was actually at the motor at first, so I took apart the motor. Bad idea. Now I can't get the motor back together and it ESP says the motor is on backorder. Any idea when new motors will be available?

I know how hard it can be to get those motors back together again. I took one apart and could not get it back together either. There is not enough room to get the brushes over the armature when reassembling it. They must have some sort of special tool to get the brushes over the armature in the factory when they are being made.

I will check with Razor this week to see when the Razor Crazy Cart motors are expected to be back in stock and I will reply again to this posting to let you know.

I have a similar problem in that I thought the problem was in the accelerator pedal.  I took it apart and found an odd looking magnetic strip of metal that had come out.  I put it back in (apparently upside down) because it started working again but accelerated when I the pedal was let out.  So I flipped it, and installed it again and now it accelerates when you push on the pedal.  BUT.  After I put it back together, it keeps falling out and then the thing won't work again.  Do I need a new Pedal?  Or do I need crazy glue?

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